Jumat, 31 Juli 2009
History On Photoshop
The history palette is just like a fantastic expansion of the edit menu: it lets you handle different states of your documents so you can always go back, it lets you save some RAM, and is especially usefull when you submit different versions of a project.
When I made my jeans boots, my file soon ended up with more than 50 layers which included masks, adjustment layers, etc...hard to handle, both for me and Pshop, and very risky.Also,I needed to be able to go back at some early states of my document, therefore I created history snapshots before every critical operation : if you look at your history palette, you'll notice it displays every operation you made
Just try it: open a document, and change its hue (CTRL+U) to change its color, repeat twice, with different colors..(ie: red, green, yellow).Then your history palette should look like this
Now, by clicking on the different history states, you can compare, get rid of one state by draging it into the trash can at the bottom of the palette, or create a new document from it...and this is the most usefull tool, as it lets you work on a new documpent, you can just save and close your original file to be sure you dont destroy/alter it.Also, when you work on a file that involves all your RAM ressources because it's huge, and have finished preparing it, create a new document from its current state , then flatten the layers, and work easily on it to correct colors, or do some various final retouching operations.
For instance, I want to make a pic in which I have different versions of the boots.As the boots are composed of 40+ layers, I have to flatten them all, so I take a snapshot of its current state so I can go back to it
now just merge all layers into a new layer on top of the above as done in the previous lessons, (ctrl+shift+N, then alt+ctrl+shift+E), and I create a new document from this state so I can work easily on it, without all the ressource taking non visible layers
Now I can save and close the original file, and work only on the recently created one, and I can delete all the layers I dont need anymore , and keep only the one I have merged all the visible layers into.The easiest way to do it it to toggle off all these layers , by ALT+clicking on the eye on the layer you want to keep, and then choose "delete hidden layers" from the layer palette menu
Now you you have a safe original file, which contains all your masks, etc, and a new file it is safe to work on.Since I had to use 4 different files to make the boots, I could not even imagine what I should have done if I had had to work with limited undos. Hopefully this will prevent you from making pics that don't look the way you want them to just because you can't go back.
How To Displacement Water
Part one: creating a displacement map We start with making an image in which the brightness represents the height of the surface. Bright is high, dark is low. The dimensions of this image control the size and shape of the waves. Start with a larger image to create smaller waves. | |
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First adjust channel 1:
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Adjust channel 2 in a similar way:
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This is what the finished displacement map should look like with the blue channel hidden. Note that in the green channel, the bright areas will shift a reflection upwards, which represents a tilt towards you. The dark areas produce a tilt away from you. This may be a little confusing because it's probably the opposite of how your brain interprets the brightness variations.
You may have to change the preference at Edit > Preferences > File Handling > Maximize PSD File Compatibility to be able to save with Maximum Compatibility. |
Part two: creating a water surface We will create a lake in this valley. | |
First, we have to make a "flat" reflection which we will distort later with the displace filter. In this example, we will treat the landscape as a single background object. This only works if the background is very distant.
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Now it really looks like water. Notice that the layer mask is also distorted because it is linked to the layer. This causes the reflectivity to change with the angle of the surface. We will make some final adjustments to complete the image. | |
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Source :http://photoshopcontest.com |
Tutorial : Create Graffiti Text On Photoshop
STEP 1: Select a good picture or texture to add the graffiti. We selected this wall:
STEP 2: Type your text. Is very important that you choose an appropiated font.
STEP 3: Right click in the text layer and Rasterize Type.
STEP 4: Duplicate the layer. On the new layer, press CTRL and click the text layer to select the content of the layer and go to Select -> Modify -> Border. Use a width of around 15 px.
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STEP 5: Select the Paint Bucket Tool (G) and paint the selection. Then erase it pressing the backspace key to obtain this effect:
STEP 6: Select the text layer. Select the Gradient Tool (G) and define the colors:
Press CTRL and click the layer to select the text. Apply the gradient:
STEP 7: Change the Blend Mode to Soft Light. Now the wall is visible through the text.
STEP 8: Go to Add a layer style and select Drop Shadow. Apply these values:
STEP 9: Select the Smudge Tool (R), and drag the graffiti down to simulate little drops.
Final result
Butterfly
This was the first time I tried doing a photo manipulation piece.
I was just experimenting with colors, brushes, and the pen tool. Please tell me what you think.
Source :http://www.flickr.com
Kamis, 30 Juli 2009
Old Photo
Old photo effect on one of my recent photos of Fantoft Stave Church in Norway.
Source :http://www.flickr.com
Photoshop and Illustrator
This experimental image was created using an intimate combination of numerous Photoshop and Illustrator techniques. The initial shot was of a friend of mine who I subsequently removed completely...
The various curves, lines and shapes were created using a series of scripts in Adobe illustrator. Once these were created, the two were then merged back in Photoshop.
Source :http://www.flickr.com
Manipulation : Create Graffiti On Wall
Graffiti as a form of art in its modern form first appeared at the beginning of 20th century, but its origins go back long ago when the first men expressed their artistic talents on cave walls.
Either graffiti is a work of art or mere vandalism, this question has no definite answer. Some graffiti have an artistic value and an idea behind them; others are a waste of paint and unsightly damage to state and private property.
In this tutorial we will show you how to make graffiti on any wall without running the risk of being fined.
The image below has been taken from the internet. We do not know the author personally, but we hope he will not mind.
We used the Chameleon plugin in Adobe Photoshop, but you can use any other photo editor compatible with the AKVIS Chameleon plugin.
- Step 1. Open the graffiti image in your photo editor.
- Step 2. Make a precise selection of the fragment. In this case the graffiti design has a difficult form, but the background is homogeneous. It’s easier to delete the background than to select the object.
In Adobe Photoshop you can use Magic Eraser Tool . Select it from the Toolbar and left click on the background around the chicken and between the wings and feathers. The background will be removed.
Now select the fragment. For quick selection click on the layer icon in the Layers palette keeping the Ctrl-key ( on Macintosh) pressed.
"Layers" palette
Select the command Filter –> AKVIS –> Chameleon – Grab Fragment in the main menu. You’ll see a message that the selected object has been saved into the clipboard.
- Step 3. Open the background image. Here we have a photo of a brick wall.
- Step 4. Select the command Filter –> AKVIS –> Chameleon – Make Collage. The Chameleon workplace will open with the background image and the fragment loaded into the Image Window.
- Step 5. Select the Emersion mode from the drop-down menu Mode in the Settings panel.
- Step 6. Use the Transform tool to adjust the size and the position of the chicken on the wall.
Press the Enter-key (Return on Macintosh) to apply the changes.
- Step 7. Select the colors of the wall. The selected colors will be replaced with the fragment’s areas.
- Step 8. Click on to start image processing. Here is the result:
- Step 9. For the image to look more natural adjust the value of the Threshold parameter. In this case the optimum value is about 50-60.
Now it looks more realistic.
Apply the result. Click on to apply the effect and close the plug-in window. The result will be shown in the workspace of your photo editor.
- Step 10. One more trick to give the image the final touch. In Step 4 one can see a shadow that faded after the processing with the plug-in. We can restore it using the Photoshop Burn Tool. Select this tool from the Toolbar and adjust its settings. Now left-click on the shadow and, keeping the Shift-key pressed to get a straight line, draw a line over the graffiti.
Here is the final result: