Making Planets and Space

Make a circle and then add the texture of the surface of a planet, and creating space and celestial bodies lainnya.Segera download this tutorial and learn. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Fairy Design On Photoshop

make your pictures better show the atmosphere of fairy tales and the future, the effect of making fairy display pictures in this tutorial more features special functions photoshop
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Effect Cars Running Fast

This effect is used to make the car move as quickly, with little blur effect on the back and a little touch of other effects make this picture like 3-dimensional. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Gradient Effects colorful sky

create a sky effect on the beautiful shades, with a beam of light like a rainbow, with varying colors. Download this tutorial soon. thanks
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Making fireworks effect with photoshop

A good night is the night with many stars and a captivating fireworks, in this tutorial will explain how to make fireworks effects with the help of photoshop software

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Spray Paint on the Face with Photoshop

How to create a paint splat on the human face of the object, edit the image with photoshop can be done more easily and ekspresiv, in this technique can expand your understanding in more detail about photoshop DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Change the picture to be colored

Change the picture to be colored with a color display that neatly. photoshop picture will impress the more alive and have the texture of color and clear images to be so very beautiful
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Make Watecolor Effect

Includes how to create a watercolor effect and image effects with pencil water. Photoshop provides all the needs you to create different effects that affect the image

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Create Web Navigation Bar On Photoshop

How to create a navigation bar on your web with photoshop to look more interesting, with a 3-dimensional effect and with the spectacular colors, very easy to learn

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Basic : How to Background Eraser

This tutorial explains in photoshop and techniques on how to remove background background background and replace it with another that looks different. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Tutorial PDF : Create Melting Apple Logo Effect

Turorial simple in effect create a melt in the apple logo, with various combinations of mixtures and the effects can be in use on each type of image. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Remove spots on face and clarify the skin color

Photoshop tutorial on how to remove spots on face and clarify the skin color. Blend with a few easy to understand. Comparing between the image after the editing is done before

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Normalization Color Photo

Tutorial how to create a color effect to look normal in accordance with the color in real life, create the appropriate color combination DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Red Sky

About 10 minutes after my last upload, I saw this at Trinidad Beach, just north of Eureka, California! High tide. Still raining. No HDR.

Go to my Flickr profile to sign up for my free weekly newsletter. I will answer questions and talk about locations and techniques. No spam will be sent! Also, I just started on Twitter.

See the 1200 pixel version!
www.flickr.com/photos/patrick-smith-photography/351518133...

Canon 5D Mark II
Canon 17-40L @ 29
1/4-second exposure @F11
LEE soft ND grads 0.9 + 0.6
Cokin z-pro filter holder
ISO 100
RAW file processed with Capture One by Phase One
TIFF file processed with Photoshop
Keen water shoes

See my last upload for the trials and tribulations of getting to this spot at this time.
www.flickr.com/photos/patrick-smith-photography/3497030979

So, as the sunset continued, the colors continued to look totally unreal to my eye. I can't say I've really seen the sky like this. Usually when I get home and process the images, I can remember what it looked like and make sure the picture looks that way, but here I knew that I would not remember. So after each shot, I'd look at the viewfinder and then at the sky, to compare the two. The viewfinder looked very similar to the scene before me. Often, it looks much more flat and color-less. So when I got home, I had to look at the viewfinder in order to process this series. I really had no reference to go by!

It was getting a bit darker, so I bumped the ISO up to 100 to keep the 1/4-second exposure time that I like when I want to shoot a breaking wave moving at this speed. I've found that anywhere from 1/8-3/8-second exposures show waves at their best. Not always though. Slow moving water can look good at 1/2-second or longer if it is all moving in the same direction.

So, I noticed how much I liked the occasional wave strike on the rock, so I moved over to have the rock be right in front of the background island for extra contrast. Then I took several shots as the waves would strike until finally I got one with the sand in a good reflective state.

After this, I put on my very dark 10-stop Hoya ndx-400 circular filter for some long-exposure action while the sky was still full of color. No more waiting for things to get dark before going for a long-exposure now!


The map shows exactly where this is.


See my profile for a link to my website where I have limited edition prints and less expensive open edition prints.




Source :http://www.flickr.com

Final Clouds Ray Of Light

Design and manipulation of light touch of special effects in this photo, create artistic nuance. This tutorial support for beginners to understand photoshop DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Tutorial Color Dodge effect

Result

Pdf file contains a tutorial how to effect a Dodge color photographs, with techniques that are easy.If you're learning photoshop, this pdf tutorial guides you in understanding the techniques more easily dodge DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Create Metal Texture

Photoshop tutorial to create the texture of steel and metal effects, tutorials that are easy and quick to understand DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Create Fire

Using only one light you can create fire and flames with CINEMA 4D XL!

Step 1: The first thing you need to do is set up your camera so you'll be able to preview the flames as you tweak with them. Bring in a Camera (Objects=>Scene=>Camera) and position it at X=0 Y=1000 Z=-900 using the Coordinates Manager. For the Rotation values set H=0 P=-7 B=0. Your view is now set up to view the fire.

Step 2: Create a Light (Objects=>Scene=>Light). Double click on its icon in the object manager to change the settings. The General tab is where you'll set the color and brightness of your flames, as well as a couple of other settings necessary for the effect to work. Set 'Visible Light' to 'Visible' and set 'Noise' to 'Both'.

Step 3: You'll most likely want an orange color for your flame and you will want to crank up the brightness so you have a bright hot center to the fire. Used here is R=90% G=50% B=20% Br=175%. These settings can be played with depending on the type of flame you want to create.

Step 4: In the Details tab set the Falloff to Inverse Square and set Inner Distance to 500m and Outer Distance to 2000m.

Step 5: In the Visible Light tab also set the Inner Distance to 500m and the Outer Distance to 2000m. Check the box for Outer Distance Z and enter 250m for the value. Uncheck the box for Adapt Brightness and set the Brightness to 300%. These settings will determine where the fire will exist in your workspace. You can adjust them to fit you needs.

Step 6: Now comes the magic part. Click on the Noise tab to adjust the noise settings. Set the type to Wavy Turbulence, you will see a preview of your noise in the small window in the upper right corner.

Step 7: At this point you have to decide what type of fire look are you trying to achieve. The octaves setting determines how much variation and noise you are going to get within the flames. Set the Ocatave to 1 for softer flames, or 8 for harsher flames as seen here.

Step 8: The velocity setting determines how fast the wavy turbulence will move about. You want to set this fairly high to simulate fire, somewhere around 300%. Keep in mind that almost all of these settings can be played around with to produce different fiery looks and are definitly not set in stone.

Step 9: Getting the Brightness and Contrast settings right are a major part of getting your fire to look good. What usually works best is setting the brightness way down and setting the contrast way up so you get some strong bright flames. Set the Brightness to around -50% and the Contrast to 200%.

Step 10: The Scale settings will determine the size of the fire. Depending on where you set your camera up you can adjust this so that flames look right. The only thing changed here was making Y=150 so that the flames are a bit taller than they are wide or deep.

Step 11: Another major part of creating this fire is getting the Wind settings down. You'll want the Y direction to be prominent of course so that the flames will move up. You can also choose to crank up the X value so you get a bit of sideways movement. Positive values move the noise right while negative values move it left. The settings used here are X=-1m Y=5m Z=0m.

Step 12: You'll notice that your noise still isn't going anywhere in the preview. You need to enter a value for the Velocity setting and you will see your fire come alive. This value determines just how fast the fire will travel in whatever direction you told it to go with the wind settings. The Velocity value used for this fire is 6.

Step 13: Your fire will automatically animate because of the Noise settings over any amount of time. Set up how many frames you wish to render out and save your animation as a movie. These are especially cool as backdrops for logo animations.

Here is a different style of fire created by simply tweaking with the Noise settings and the flame color (R=85% G=50% B=20% Br=200%). The Noise settings used here are Type=Wavy Turbulence, Octaves=1, Velocity=300%, Brightness=-150%, Contrast=350%, Scale: X=100 Y=150 Z=100, Wind: X=1 Y=5 Z=1 Velocity=10.

Source :http://www.exguides.org

Create a Frame Effect to quickly

Tutorial PDF that contains how to create a frame effect to quickly and easily, by adding a little touch of art and make your photo more perfect. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Manila Flower

Manila bay is a virtual lover's lane in the afternoons, what with the spectacular sunsets day after day after day!

with a sunset that beautiful, why even gerberas would fall in love...

this is shot with the sunset in the background and the gerberas in front (i get lots of questions if i pasted the gerberas, lol! postprocessing done just to adjust hues and to add the orton effect.

view it LARGE!

going out for dinner, so will visit your photos in the morning...have a great weekend my friends!

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Create old face effect

I've been asked several times by different members to post a tutorial on how I age-progress a person. So, here it is!



Men and women age a little bit differently but since I've only aged female celebrities thus far, I'll just focus on women for this tutorial. I’ll be using the image of Katie Holmes that I did for a past W1K contest, as an example.

Step 1: Choosing an Appropriate Photo

When deciding to age-progress a celebrity’s face, I try to select a picture that is touched-up as little as possible.



I find that candid shots, or any shots that have not been taken in a studio, work best because the resulting harsh lighting reveals more of the skin’s details i.e. slight bags under the eyes and faint wrinkles. The appearance of such details makes it all that much easier to visualize how your subject will age. Visualizing what the end result will look like brings you one step closer to aging her face realistically.



In Katie’s case, we can see very faint horizontal lines on her forehead, fairly obvious lines under her eyes and lines bracketing her mouth.

Step 2: Collecting Reference Material

Reference material is key in my method of aging. Keeping Katie’s face in mind, I scoured the Web, looking for faces of old women who either resemble Katie and/or share the same facial expression. Here, Katie is smiling with her face positioned at a 3/4 angle so I tried to gather as many pictures of old women who are smiling in the same manner or close to that. I then opened up the picture of Katie in Photoshop and pasted the found images around her face on a separate layer, spread out to provide easy visual access.



Another kind of reference I like to use but is usually hard to find, is pictures of the subject’s parents. I managed to find a couple of reference pictures of Katie’s mother online and they really helped me to decide whether or not to give Katie a double chin. Since her mom has quite a bit of mass under her chin, I decided I would apply that to Katie too.

Step 3: Thinning Brows

Now the fun begins! The first thing I like to do is to thin out the subject’s eyebrows and eyelashes. The older people get, the thinner their hair gets - either because hair falls out and/or because it dries out as it greys.



So to achieve this, I like to use the Clone Stamp tool at 100% with a relatively small brush size depending on the size and resolution of the image. I sampled the surrounding skin to thin and reduce the number of hairs.

Step 4: Mold the Face

Next, I like to add the basic sags to the skin. I do this in the Liquify mode. I tried to create sagging effects to the cheeks, jowls and the cliff just above the eyes by using the Push tool. For the eyes, I tried to be subtle; otherwise she may end up looking somewhat ghoulish.



From what I’ve learned about the aging process, I know that while bones cease to grow, and in fact shrink, cartilage does continue to grow. As a result, the end of a nose may appear larger as a person grows older. So while I was still in the Liquify mode, I used the Push tool to extend the length of the nose slightly. Then I used the Bloat tool to also enlarge it slightly, being careful not lose the essential quality or character of the nose. Go too far and it may not look like Katie anymore.

Step 5: The Aforementioned Double Chin

Based on her mother’s pictures, I then added a fairly massive double chin. I initially used the Airbrush tool with some fairly broad strokes, sampling the colors that were already in the area of her neck. I then worked in the details with a finer brush size. Also, keep in mind that I was also using the other reference photos of older women to guide me.

Step 6: Wrinkle Up the Eyes

For me, the most important parts to get right are the eyes. They can make or break the project. Done wrong and the picture may no longer be identifiable as one of Katie Holmes anymore. I sought out the fine lines around the eyes and I tried to imagine how they would progress into wrinkles. I then extended them in length and width accordingly. Referencing the pictures of old women helped a lot with this step.



I used a combination of the Stamp tool and Brush tool. I wish I could explain my technique at this point in a more clinical manner but mostly I relied on my artistic instincts. I emphasized the wrinkles around the eyes by widening and deepening the lines slightly and increasing the contrast by darkening the recesses and lightening the edges. Also, I extended wrinkles to the cheekbone areas. I then applied the same technique to the wrinkles around the mouth and to the forehead.

Step 6: Reducing the Lips

In this step, I work on the lips. As people grow older, the outline of the lips tends to recede. Using the Stamp tool, I sampled the skin surrounding the lips and thinned them out.



While I was at it, I also added a few vertical wrinkles above the lips to give her a bit of a "prune" effect. We just want a hint of that, so don’t carve out deep lines; deep lines would only be necessary if she was puckering her lips.

Step 7: Planning Out More Wrinkles

Here, on a separate layer, I faintly outlined or sketched, with a relatively thin brush size, areas that I may or may not add more lines and wrinkles to. It’s easy to get carried away with the addition of wrinkles. So, I stopped, took a step back and assessed where to take to image. For me, it's essential and a great test to see what best works.

Step 8: Touching Up the Wrinkles

Based on the previous step, I added wrinkles where I thought they were needed most.



Overall, I found that the wrinkles and lines seemed a little flat in comparison to the rest of Katie’s features. They needed more definition so that they could pop out more. So, I highlighted the raised edges of the individual lines with the Brush tool and with a lighter skin tone.

Step 9: Hairy Lips

Facial hair becomes an issue with most women as they age. For some strange reason they lose it in the brow area and grow it back around the mouth area. I didn’t want Katie to be the exception so with a very fine brush size and the Brush tool, I added hairs to her upper lip.



I tried to make it as subtle as possible. Hairs too thick or dark would draw the viewer’s attention straight to her mustache and I didn’t want that. I also added more wrinkles to the area below the corners of her mouth.

Step 10: Refining the Neck

I decided that the neck was too smooth for a woman of 75 years of age. So I added finer wrinkles to that area. Also, I added more mass and weight to her jowls with the airbrush by increasing the value of the tones in those areas thus creating more contrast between surface planes.

Step 11: Adding Age Spots

A key component to effective aging of a face is the addition of age spots.



So at this point, I sampled one of the darker skin tones on her face, and on a separate layer that was set to Multiply and 30% opacity, I brushed them in and tried to create irregular shapes (there IS no perfect age spot). You can add as many as you like; the amount varies from person to person. I decided to be conservative with Katie.

Step 12: More Refinements

I took a little break from it and came back to it later to possibly get a better perspective on it. When I looked at it, at this point, I decided that certain areas needed refining and added detail. This is the beauty of working with a high-resolution file; I can zoom in real close and deal with a wrinkle up-close and personal.



Unless their teeth were subjected to regular whitening, most people’s teeth yellow with age. Gums also recede, showing less gum and more bone. And so with that in mind, I sampled a yellowish-brown color and on a new layer that was set to Multiply and 30% opacity and painted that color to the teeth with the Brush tool. Her gums didn’t show to begin with, so receding the gums here wasn’t necessary.

Step 13: Preparing the Hair

The finishing touch here is greying the hair. I began by creating a mask defining the area of the hair. I used the brush for this and tried my best to define as many loose strands of hair that I could.



With this mask as a selection, I then created a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer and reduced the saturation to –63.



I then created a new adjustment layer based on the same mask and adjusted the Brightness/Contrast to brightness +9 and contrast –36. As a result, I found that the darker areas were too pale and caused a loss of depth and so to adjust that, I then selected the mask and scratched out the darker areas with a 5px brush size at 50% opacity so that they could show through from the original image.

Step 14: Hair Raising

The next step was to raise the hairline and thin out the hair. Hair loss is common with both sexes.



I sampled the area at the top of the forehead and extended the skin area above the original hairline.

Step 15: Greying the Hair

A lot of details of the hair were lost in the previous step so with a thin brush size at 80 percent opacity I drew in fine grey hairs, sparsely laid out.



Patiently, slowly, stroke by stroke I added more and more hairs until I was happy with the amount of grey I had added.

Step 16: Finishing Touches

Finally, I took a step back, refined a few wrinkles here and there ET VOILA!



I hope this tutorial was insightful. It may not be the most technically detailed tutorial but it gives you a good idea of the process I go through to get the job done. Hopefully, it will help you create your own trophy-winning images for future Fountain of Age contests!

Source :http://www.exguides.org