Tutorial Photoshop

Making manipulation Burned Building

2009-12-20T11:08:00.000-08:00

This tutorial discusses how to give the effect of burning a building. Building a strong and firm will be changed to be full of smoke and fire that burned around the building DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Photoshop Tutorial

2009-12-17T16:54:00.001-08:00

Various techniques and tutorial in pdf form will be distributed here. Thanks

Stencil Effects tutorials

2009-12-05T17:16:00.000-08:00

After vacation, I finally returned to write this blog. Today I will discuss about Stencil Effects tutorials. for the next day still visit my website. thanks DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Twister Effect

2009-11-01T16:44:00.000-08:00

This tutorial is very customizable, and you can end up with totally different results from what you see here. This tutorial is to show you how to achieve the effect, and perhaps to give you an idea of how it can look, but you should think of the final image that I will create as more of an inspiration than a rule. In other words, learn the concepts, but experiment and try to make it your own as well. Secondly, because this is my first tutorial ever written, it may be a bit different from what you are used to. The steps for example, are quite thorough (sometimes multiple tasks per step) so they are kind of like chapters. Also, this tutorial might be geared more towards intermediate/advanced photoshoppers, but even if you are brand new to the software, you should be able to follow along (I have tried to be as detailed as possible in the procedure. For example: mapping out how to create a new layer).

Preview of Final Results

Stock Photos

Here is the stock photo used for this tutorial. You can download the image through Dreamstime by clicking on the image below. We used the highest resolution (unscaled) images available to write this tutorial. If you would like to follow this tutorial using the same settings we used, download the highest resolution (unscaled) images available.

When working with any image in Photoshop, always play things on the cautious side and make new layers for everything. This way, if you make a mistake, you won't have to start all over, but you might just have to re-do one layer, possibly saving you hours of work. Everything in this tutorial should be done on separate layers.

Step 1 – Open the image of the city

Lets get started! Load the image of the model into Photoshop. To do this, choose File > Open, browse for the file, then click OK. For this tutorial, I just decided that I wanted to leave out some of the city, because it was a really big image. So, in the picture below, you can see that I selected a portion of the city to use in the rest of the tutorial using the marquee tool.

Step 2 - Scale the image selection that you chose in step 1

Alright, so with that selected, copy it (control/command + C) and paste it into a new document (File > New). The default settings will be fine, and click OK. At this point, you will want to resize the document to a smaller scale (or keep it huge, but the tutorial will work with smaller units, so you will have to adjust everything if you keep the image really big). I rescaled the image to a width of 1200 px (Image > Image Size...) put 1200 in for the width, and the height will scale appropriately, automatically. Before you go any further, name this layer "city".

Step 3 - Select the sky

The next thing to do is to select the sky. There are lots of ways to do this, but for this tutorial, I wanted to be quick, so I just grabbed the quick selection (or magic wand) tool "w", and painted the sky until I had it selected. The pen tool will give you more exact results, but you probably won't notice small mistakes further on because of the clouds that we will add later. Just try to get a good selection.

Step 4 - Isolate your buildings

Now you get to choose which buildings you want to apply the effect to. First, you are going to want to select the city instead of the sky, so go to Select > Inverse, and then take the marquee tool "m" and choose the buildings that you want. Hold down option when you click and drag (this will get rid of the selected city on either side of your buildings. You should arrive at something that looks like the following image.

Step 5 - Prepping for a new sky

With these buildings selected, copy them (control/command + c) and paste them into a new layer, right where they were before (nothing should look different, you've only moved the buildings to a different layer). Name this layer "buildings".

Now, in the layers palette, select the layer "buildings" (control/command + click on the layer "buildings"), and then turn of the visibility of the "buildings" layer, so you can see what you're doing.

Now go back to the "city" layer (which now is without the buildings that you moved). Then, fill the selection with the color of the sky (use the eye dropper tool "i" to select a blue color somewhere in the sky, and then, fill the selection with the paint bucket/fill tool "g"). You should come up with something like this.

Note: If you cannot seem to select the layer by clicking on it, you are probably clicking the wrong thing. To the left of the layer name, there is a small icon of the layer. You should control/command + click on that image, not the text itself.

Step 6 - Add a new sky (part 1)

Now, select all the blue like you did before with the wand/quick select "w" tool. With this new selection, create a new layer (Layer > New > Layer) and fill it "g" with a brown (I used #5e5139). You should now see something like this.

Step 7 - Add a new sky (part 2)

Now we are going to add clouds. In a new layer, using a brown foreground and a black background, go to Filter > Render > Clouds. Once you've done that, hit control/command + T, and drag out the sides of the box so that the clouds get a little flatter, and stretched out looking. At this point, you should only see clouds. Take the eraser (using a brush size of about 300px, hardness of 0) and start erasing the bottom of the clouds layer, so that you can begin to see your city again. Customize this as much as you'd like. You probably want to see most of the buildings though. This is what my result looked like.
Don't worry if your colors are a little off, we will fix that in the last step.

Step 8 - Bring your selected buildings to the top

This is a simple step. Locate your buildings that you isolated a while back in step 4, turn on the layer visibility and move the layer to the top of the stack. You should now see something like this.

Step 9 - Dissolve Effect (Setup)

Another easy step. Just follow along with the following images, and set up your eraser tool "e" to mimic these effects. In order to see this brush palette, go to Window > Brushes.

Step 10 - Dissolve Effect (Erasing)

Now for the fun part -- the dissolve effect! Using either a pen tablet, or your mouse, start erasing the top(s) of your building(s) with your newly customized eraser tool "e". This step is very customizable, so results may very significantly. This is what I got.

Step 11 - Dissolve Effect (Debris)

This is probably the most fun you're going to have in this tutorial, because now you get to draw the debris! First configure your brush tool "b" to look exactly like your eraser by just following the images in step 9 in case you forgot the settings. In a new layer, starting with the color black, begin to put debris into the scene. Keep in mind that a twister will be sucking it up into the sky, so make it go upward, and off to an angle to add realism. It might look a bit unnatural right now, but it will be fixed later when we add the twister. I said to start with black as your foreground color, but as you go on, start option + clicking around the area you're working on to pick up new colors from the background like browns, reds, and grays. Your debris shouldn't just be one color, but a combination of colors taken from the surrounding environment instead. Play around with it until it looks right to you. Once again, this step is very customizable (like most of this tutorial in fact... so your results can very dramatically.)

Step 12 - Twister Effect (part 1)

You may have been wondering when this part was going to show up, but fret not, you've made it this far, and you're here now (hopefully, ha). Okay now, exactly like we did in step 7, we are going to add clouds once again (in a new layer of course). Same colors as before will work (black and #5e5139). Once again, click control/command + T and stretch out the sides. Now you have to shape your twister, so take your eraser "e" and (using a size of 300px, hardness of 0) erase the sides of your clouds layer, so that what you are left with looks like a twister. You can also erase some of the inside of the twister so that you can see your buildings of focus more clearly (especially towards the top, where all the action with the debris is happening). When you've done all this, adjust the brightness (Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast and set the brightness to -75).

Step 13 - Twister Effect (part 2)

Now we are going to break up the twister into two parts, a top half and a bottom half. To do this, select your marquee tool "m" set a feather of 100px (we want this to be blurry so that there isn't a harsh line where we've halved the twister). Now, select the bottom half with the marquee tool, and cut and paste this into a new layer (and if necessary, move it back into the position where it was before we cut and pasted it). In the layers palette, set the opacity of the bottom half to 95%. I know it isn't much, but it is just enough to let you see the buildings a bit more clearly.

Step 14 - Twister Effect (part 3)

We are going to make this twister look more menacing by applying some layer styles. In the layers palette, double click the layer with the top half of the twister to add layer styles. Follow along the following pictures, and apply the layer styles.

After applying these layer styles, you should arrive at something like this:

Step 15 - Letterbox Effect

This is something that I like to do to my images to give them sort of an epic/cinematic feel to them. It is extremely simple, and in my opinion, makes a great difference. To do this effect, in a new layer, you take the marquee tool (feather should be set to 0, in case it was still on 100px), and select as much as you want to eliminate on either the top or the bottom. But only do one. As soon as you do one bar, copy the layer (control/command + J) and move it to either the top or the bottom (whichever is missing the bar) until it snaps in place. Then click control/command + E to merge both bars onto one layer. The whole reason that I say to only do one bar, and then copy it is to ensure that both bars are the same size/height as one another.

Step 16 - Final Coloring

In order to change the coloring of the entire image, we have to flatten it first. In order to do this, to Layer > Flatten Image. After you've done this, you'll notice that everything has been merged into one layer, and that way, any changes we make to that layer will effect the whole image rather than just parts. Go to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation. Apply the settings in the following image. You can change the hue according to the mood that you want to set in your image, but I suggest that you keep the saturation low like this (from 10 to 25), because in movies, they always take most of the color out of the film. And make sure that you have colorized checked at the bottom.

The End - Congratulations

Congratulations, you've reached the end of the tutorial! I hope you understood what was going on, and enjoyed learning about this effect as much as I did teaching it. You have just learned how to take a daytime, clear-weathered, intact city, and turn it into a dark, stormy, destroyed city under attack. Looking back at your original image, you should be able to see quite a difference, and you did it all without premade brushes and photos. If your image doesn't look exactly like mine does, don't freak out. Rather, see this is as a good thing, because you have changed it to make it your own. Keep playing around with it, practice the techniques, and try to improve on areas here and there that you think could use improvement. It is all up to you as the artist -- good luck!

Here’s an alternative outcome using a different image:

source : http://photoshoptutorials.ws/

Remove Blemishes on Photoshop

2009-10-22T06:10:00.001-07:00

Human face has a stain can be removed quickly with the help of photoshop. This tutorial will help you in removing all stains your face. make sure you are gorgeous photos DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Photoshop Tutorial Free Download

2009-10-16T05:07:00.000-07:00

We always provide a useful ebook for those who want to learn photoshop. Has provided a lot of pdf ebook you can learn with ease

Tutorial How to Create Watermark On Photoshop

2009-10-05T18:11:00.001-07:00

Tagging your photos with watermark will make you the right to work becomes more precious, this is a photoshop ebook about how to make a watermark DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Create images with good quality

2009-09-30T07:08:00.000-07:00

Today I will share ebook tutorial on how to make images become visible with a good quality camera, with proper lighting techniques and a fascinating blur DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Tutorial PDF Photoshop

2009-09-18T07:19:00.000-07:00

Tutorial in this blog right now we put in PDF format, so that visitors can explore in more detail about the effects on photoshop software, pdf file format contains many tutorials from start early introduction to good with photoshop

Shading of an object

2009-09-13T22:57:00.000-07:00

Learn to create shadow objects, so it is more alive and express 3-dimensional, with some shading techniques to obtain a perfect image DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Retro Classic Text

2009-09-09T01:23:00.000-07:00

Make a classic style text design with colors that blend some retro impression. With bewarna dark background. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Photoshop Tutorial Download For Beginner

2009-09-05T18:10:00.001-07:00

This Blog provide a variety of design tutorial using photoshop. It consists of various media such as video tutorials tutorial to pdf files you can download for your review.

Create Matrix Text

2009-09-05T17:39:00.000-07:00

Tutorial on how to make text effect that resembles the text in the film matrix with light flashed green and camouflaged so that the impression the computer digits in matrix DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Adding Stone Texture to the Skin

2009-09-04T04:42:00.000-07:00

The manipulation of human facial skin that has a texture like a stone. Totally change the entire skin of the face with another image that resembles a stone DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Making Planets and Space

2009-08-29T17:22:00.001-07:00

Make a circle and then add the texture of the surface of a planet, and creating space and celestial bodies lainnya.Segera download this tutorial and learn. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Fairy Design On Photoshop

2009-08-27T04:03:00.000-07:00

make your pictures better show the atmosphere of fairy tales and the future, the effect of making fairy display pictures in this tutorial more features special functions photoshop
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Effect Cars Running Fast

2009-08-26T09:26:00.000-07:00

This effect is used to make the car move as quickly, with little blur effect on the back and a little touch of other effects make this picture like 3-dimensional. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Gradient Effects colorful sky

2009-08-26T03:30:00.000-07:00

create a sky effect on the beautiful shades, with a beam of light like a rainbow, with varying colors. Download this tutorial soon. thanks
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Making fireworks effect with photoshop

2009-08-25T09:10:00.000-07:00

A good night is the night with many stars and a captivating fireworks, in this tutorial will explain how to make fireworks effects with the help of photoshop software

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Spray Paint on the Face with Photoshop

2009-08-22T17:37:00.000-07:00

How to create a paint splat on the human face of the object, edit the image with photoshop can be done more easily and ekspresiv, in this technique can expand your understanding in more detail about photoshop DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Change the picture to be colored

2009-08-21T02:40:00.001-07:00

Change the picture to be colored with a color display that neatly. photoshop picture will impress the more alive and have the texture of color and clear images to be so very beautiful
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Make Watecolor Effect

2009-08-19T01:27:00.000-07:00

Includes how to create a watercolor effect and image effects with pencil water. Photoshop provides all the needs you to create different effects that affect the image

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Create Web Navigation Bar On Photoshop

2009-08-16T23:39:00.000-07:00

How to create a navigation bar on your web with photoshop to look more interesting, with a 3-dimensional effect and with the spectacular colors, very easy to learn

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Basic : How to Background Eraser

2009-08-15T18:24:00.000-07:00

This tutorial explains in photoshop and techniques on how to remove background background background and replace it with another that looks different. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Tutorial PDF : Create Melting Apple Logo Effect

2009-08-12T20:36:00.001-07:00

Turorial simple in effect create a melt in the apple logo, with various combinations of mixtures and the effects can be in use on each type of image. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Remove spots on face and clarify the skin color

2009-08-12T04:44:00.001-07:00

Photoshop tutorial on how to remove spots on face and clarify the skin color. Blend with a few easy to understand. Comparing between the image after the editing is done before

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Normalization Color Photo

2009-08-11T06:18:00.001-07:00

Tutorial how to create a color effect to look normal in accordance with the color in real life, create the appropriate color combination DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Red Sky

2009-08-08T07:38:00.000-07:00

About 10 minutes after my last upload, I saw this at Trinidad Beach, just north of Eureka, California! High tide. Still raining. No HDR.

Go to my Flickr profile to sign up for my free weekly newsletter. I will answer questions and talk about locations and techniques. No spam will be sent! Also, I just started on Twitter.

See the 1200 pixel version!
www.flickr.com/photos/patrick-smith-photography/351518133...

Canon 5D Mark II
Canon 17-40L @ 29
1/4-second exposure @F11
LEE soft ND grads 0.9 + 0.6
Cokin z-pro filter holder
ISO 100
RAW file processed with Capture One by Phase One
TIFF file processed with Photoshop
Keen water shoes

See my last upload for the trials and tribulations of getting to this spot at this time.
www.flickr.com/photos/patrick-smith-photography/3497030979

So, as the sunset continued, the colors continued to look totally unreal to my eye. I can't say I've really seen the sky like this. Usually when I get home and process the images, I can remember what it looked like and make sure the picture looks that way, but here I knew that I would not remember. So after each shot, I'd look at the viewfinder and then at the sky, to compare the two. The viewfinder looked very similar to the scene before me. Often, it looks much more flat and color-less. So when I got home, I had to look at the viewfinder in order to process this series. I really had no reference to go by!

It was getting a bit darker, so I bumped the ISO up to 100 to keep the 1/4-second exposure time that I like when I want to shoot a breaking wave moving at this speed. I've found that anywhere from 1/8-3/8-second exposures show waves at their best. Not always though. Slow moving water can look good at 1/2-second or longer if it is all moving in the same direction.

So, I noticed how much I liked the occasional wave strike on the rock, so I moved over to have the rock be right in front of the background island for extra contrast. Then I took several shots as the waves would strike until finally I got one with the sand in a good reflective state.

After this, I put on my very dark 10-stop Hoya ndx-400 circular filter for some long-exposure action while the sky was still full of color. No more waiting for things to get dark before going for a long-exposure now!

The map shows exactly where this is.

See my profile for a link to my website where I have limited edition prints and less expensive open edition prints.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Final Clouds Ray Of Light

2009-08-08T06:49:00.001-07:00

Design and manipulation of light touch of special effects in this photo, create artistic nuance. This tutorial support for beginners to understand photoshop DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Tutorial Color Dodge effect

2009-08-07T09:14:00.000-07:00

Result

Pdf file contains a tutorial how to effect a Dodge color photographs, with techniques that are easy.If you're learning photoshop, this pdf tutorial guides you in understanding the techniques more easily dodge DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Create Metal Texture

2009-08-07T02:42:00.000-07:00

Photoshop tutorial to create the texture of steel and metal effects, tutorials that are easy and quick to understand DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Create Fire

2009-08-06T18:01:00.000-07:00

Using only one light you can create fire and flames with CINEMA 4D XL!

Step 1: The first thing you need to do is set up your camera so you'll be able to preview the flames as you tweak with them. Bring in a Camera (Objects=>Scene=>Camera) and position it at X=0 Y=1000 Z=-900 using the Coordinates Manager. For the Rotation values set H=0 P=-7 B=0. Your view is now set up to view the fire.

Step 2: Create a Light (Objects=>Scene=>Light). Double click on its icon in the object manager to change the settings. The General tab is where you'll set the color and brightness of your flames, as well as a couple of other settings necessary for the effect to work. Set 'Visible Light' to 'Visible' and set 'Noise' to 'Both'.

Step 3: You'll most likely want an orange color for your flame and you will want to crank up the brightness so you have a bright hot center to the fire. Used here is R=90% G=50% B=20% Br=175%. These settings can be played with depending on the type of flame you want to create.

Step 4: In the Details tab set the Falloff to Inverse Square and set Inner Distance to 500m and Outer Distance to 2000m.

Step 5: In the Visible Light tab also set the Inner Distance to 500m and the Outer Distance to 2000m. Check the box for Outer Distance Z and enter 250m for the value. Uncheck the box for Adapt Brightness and set the Brightness to 300%. These settings will determine where the fire will exist in your workspace. You can adjust them to fit you needs.

Step 6: Now comes the magic part. Click on the Noise tab to adjust the noise settings. Set the type to Wavy Turbulence, you will see a preview of your noise in the small window in the upper right corner.

Step 7: At this point you have to decide what type of fire look are you trying to achieve. The octaves setting determines how much variation and noise you are going to get within the flames. Set the Ocatave to 1 for softer flames, or 8 for harsher flames as seen here.

Step 8: The velocity setting determines how fast the wavy turbulence will move about. You want to set this fairly high to simulate fire, somewhere around 300%. Keep in mind that almost all of these settings can be played around with to produce different fiery looks and are definitly not set in stone.

Step 9: Getting the Brightness and Contrast settings right are a major part of getting your fire to look good. What usually works best is setting the brightness way down and setting the contrast way up so you get some strong bright flames. Set the Brightness to around -50% and the Contrast to 200%.

Step 10: The Scale settings will determine the size of the fire. Depending on where you set your camera up you can adjust this so that flames look right. The only thing changed here was making Y=150 so that the flames are a bit taller than they are wide or deep.

Step 11: Another major part of creating this fire is getting the Wind settings down. You'll want the Y direction to be prominent of course so that the flames will move up. You can also choose to crank up the X value so you get a bit of sideways movement. Positive values move the noise right while negative values move it left. The settings used here are X=-1m Y=5m Z=0m.

Step 12: You'll notice that your noise still isn't going anywhere in the preview. You need to enter a value for the Velocity setting and you will see your fire come alive. This value determines just how fast the fire will travel in whatever direction you told it to go with the wind settings. The Velocity value used for this fire is 6.

Step 13: Your fire will automatically animate because of the Noise settings over any amount of time. Set up how many frames you wish to render out and save your animation as a movie. These are especially cool as backdrops for logo animations.

Here is a different style of fire created by simply tweaking with the Noise settings and the flame color (R=85% G=50% B=20% Br=200%). The Noise settings used here are Type=Wavy Turbulence, Octaves=1, Velocity=300%, Brightness=-150%, Contrast=350%, Scale: X=100 Y=150 Z=100, Wind: X=1 Y=5 Z=1 Velocity=10.

Source :http://www.exguides.org

Create a Frame Effect to quickly

2009-08-06T09:24:00.000-07:00

Tutorial PDF that contains how to create a frame effect to quickly and easily, by adding a little touch of art and make your photo more perfect. DOWNLOAD TUTORIAL

Manila Flower

2009-08-05T04:15:00.000-07:00

Manila bay is a virtual lover's lane in the afternoons, what with the spectacular sunsets day after day after day!

with a sunset that beautiful, why even gerberas would fall in love...

this is shot with the sunset in the background and the gerberas in front (i get lots of questions if i pasted the gerberas, lol! postprocessing done just to adjust hues and to add the orton effect.

view it LARGE!

going out for dinner, so will visit your photos in the morning...have a great weekend my friends!

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Create old face effect

2009-08-05T03:55:00.000-07:00

I've been asked several times by different members to post a tutorial on how I age-progress a person. So, here it is!

Men and women age a little bit differently but since I've only aged female celebrities thus far, I'll just focus on women for this tutorial. I’ll be using the image of Katie Holmes that I did for a past W1K contest, as an example.

Step 1: Choosing an Appropriate Photo

When deciding to age-progress a celebrity’s face, I try to select a picture that is touched-up as little as possible.

I find that candid shots, or any shots that have not been taken in a studio, work best because the resulting harsh lighting reveals more of the skin’s details i.e. slight bags under the eyes and faint wrinkles. The appearance of such details makes it all that much easier to visualize how your subject will age. Visualizing what the end result will look like brings you one step closer to aging her face realistically.

In Katie’s case, we can see very faint horizontal lines on her forehead, fairly obvious lines under her eyes and lines bracketing her mouth.

Step 2: Collecting Reference Material

Reference material is key in my method of aging. Keeping Katie’s face in mind, I scoured the Web, looking for faces of old women who either resemble Katie and/or share the same facial expression. Here, Katie is smiling with her face positioned at a 3/4 angle so I tried to gather as many pictures of old women who are smiling in the same manner or close to that. I then opened up the picture of Katie in Photoshop and pasted the found images around her face on a separate layer, spread out to provide easy visual access.

Another kind of reference I like to use but is usually hard to find, is pictures of the subject’s parents. I managed to find a couple of reference pictures of Katie’s mother online and they really helped me to decide whether or not to give Katie a double chin. Since her mom has quite a bit of mass under her chin, I decided I would apply that to Katie too.

Step 3: Thinning Brows

Now the fun begins! The first thing I like to do is to thin out the subject’s eyebrows and eyelashes. The older people get, the thinner their hair gets - either because hair falls out and/or because it dries out as it greys.

So to achieve this, I like to use the Clone Stamp tool at 100% with a relatively small brush size depending on the size and resolution of the image. I sampled the surrounding skin to thin and reduce the number of hairs.

Step 4: Mold the Face

Next, I like to add the basic sags to the skin. I do this in the Liquify mode. I tried to create sagging effects to the cheeks, jowls and the cliff just above the eyes by using the Push tool. For the eyes, I tried to be subtle; otherwise she may end up looking somewhat ghoulish.

From what I’ve learned about the aging process, I know that while bones cease to grow, and in fact shrink, cartilage does continue to grow. As a result, the end of a nose may appear larger as a person grows older. So while I was still in the Liquify mode, I used the Push tool to extend the length of the nose slightly. Then I used the Bloat tool to also enlarge it slightly, being careful not lose the essential quality or character of the nose. Go too far and it may not look like Katie anymore.

Step 5: The Aforementioned Double Chin

Based on her mother’s pictures, I then added a fairly massive double chin. I initially used the Airbrush tool with some fairly broad strokes, sampling the colors that were already in the area of her neck. I then worked in the details with a finer brush size. Also, keep in mind that I was also using the other reference photos of older women to guide me.

Step 6: Wrinkle Up the Eyes

For me, the most important parts to get right are the eyes. They can make or break the project. Done wrong and the picture may no longer be identifiable as one of Katie Holmes anymore. I sought out the fine lines around the eyes and I tried to imagine how they would progress into wrinkles. I then extended them in length and width accordingly. Referencing the pictures of old women helped a lot with this step.

I used a combination of the Stamp tool and Brush tool. I wish I could explain my technique at this point in a more clinical manner but mostly I relied on my artistic instincts. I emphasized the wrinkles around the eyes by widening and deepening the lines slightly and increasing the contrast by darkening the recesses and lightening the edges. Also, I extended wrinkles to the cheekbone areas. I then applied the same technique to the wrinkles around the mouth and to the forehead.

Step 6: Reducing the Lips

In this step, I work on the lips. As people grow older, the outline of the lips tends to recede. Using the Stamp tool, I sampled the skin surrounding the lips and thinned them out.

While I was at it, I also added a few vertical wrinkles above the lips to give her a bit of a "prune" effect. We just want a hint of that, so don’t carve out deep lines; deep lines would only be necessary if she was puckering her lips.

Step 7: Planning Out More Wrinkles

Here, on a separate layer, I faintly outlined or sketched, with a relatively thin brush size, areas that I may or may not add more lines and wrinkles to. It’s easy to get carried away with the addition of wrinkles. So, I stopped, took a step back and assessed where to take to image. For me, it's essential and a great test to see what best works.

Step 8: Touching Up the Wrinkles

Based on the previous step, I added wrinkles where I thought they were needed most.

Overall, I found that the wrinkles and lines seemed a little flat in comparison to the rest of Katie’s features. They needed more definition so that they could pop out more. So, I highlighted the raised edges of the individual lines with the Brush tool and with a lighter skin tone.

Step 9: Hairy Lips

Facial hair becomes an issue with most women as they age. For some strange reason they lose it in the brow area and grow it back around the mouth area. I didn’t want Katie to be the exception so with a very fine brush size and the Brush tool, I added hairs to her upper lip.

I tried to make it as subtle as possible. Hairs too thick or dark would draw the viewer’s attention straight to her mustache and I didn’t want that. I also added more wrinkles to the area below the corners of her mouth.

Step 10: Refining the Neck

I decided that the neck was too smooth for a woman of 75 years of age. So I added finer wrinkles to that area. Also, I added more mass and weight to her jowls with the airbrush by increasing the value of the tones in those areas thus creating more contrast between surface planes.

Step 11: Adding Age Spots

A key component to effective aging of a face is the addition of age spots.

So at this point, I sampled one of the darker skin tones on her face, and on a separate layer that was set to Multiply and 30% opacity, I brushed them in and tried to create irregular shapes (there IS no perfect age spot). You can add as many as you like; the amount varies from person to person. I decided to be conservative with Katie.

Step 12: More Refinements

I took a little break from it and came back to it later to possibly get a better perspective on it. When I looked at it, at this point, I decided that certain areas needed refining and added detail. This is the beauty of working with a high-resolution file; I can zoom in real close and deal with a wrinkle up-close and personal.

Unless their teeth were subjected to regular whitening, most people’s teeth yellow with age. Gums also recede, showing less gum and more bone. And so with that in mind, I sampled a yellowish-brown color and on a new layer that was set to Multiply and 30% opacity and painted that color to the teeth with the Brush tool. Her gums didn’t show to begin with, so receding the gums here wasn’t necessary.

Step 13: Preparing the Hair

The finishing touch here is greying the hair. I began by creating a mask defining the area of the hair. I used the brush for this and tried my best to define as many loose strands of hair that I could.

With this mask as a selection, I then created a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer and reduced the saturation to –63.

I then created a new adjustment layer based on the same mask and adjusted the Brightness/Contrast to brightness +9 and contrast –36. As a result, I found that the darker areas were too pale and caused a loss of depth and so to adjust that, I then selected the mask and scratched out the darker areas with a 5px brush size at 50% opacity so that they could show through from the original image.

Step 14: Hair Raising

The next step was to raise the hairline and thin out the hair. Hair loss is common with both sexes.

I sampled the area at the top of the forehead and extended the skin area above the original hairline.

Step 15: Greying the Hair

A lot of details of the hair were lost in the previous step so with a thin brush size at 80 percent opacity I drew in fine grey hairs, sparsely laid out.

Patiently, slowly, stroke by stroke I added more and more hairs until I was happy with the amount of grey I had added.

Step 16: Finishing Touches

Finally, I took a step back, refined a few wrinkles here and there ET VOILA!

I hope this tutorial was insightful. It may not be the most technically detailed tutorial but it gives you a good idea of the process I go through to get the job done. Hopefully, it will help you create your own trophy-winning images for future Fountain of Age contests!

Source :http://www.exguides.org

Final Resul Photo Effect

2009-08-04T11:11:00.000-07:00

So I finally finished my exam final peice, the original design/concept work was for a potrait format image but this worked better for context... so 13 hours and too many chocolate sweets/cake later this twisted breed of photography, severed bodies and photoshop is born. Based on the pursiut of the 'magazine body' in todays materialistic culture with the 'paperface' concept and subtle interludes of fakeism (?) with the dresser doll concept and the frustration/anxiety caused when the unachievable levels perfection set by the media are not reached with the 'mistake' base image.

..or just a 'weird' severed body of a girl messing up her makeup with magazines tatooed to her face :-)

tbh Im 95% happy with it, partly because of the fact that its one of the most complicated manipulations Ive done but mostly because this time I thought it up all by myself and went right from concept sketches to photography through to manipulation without pulling source things from the interwebs, the only thing that I didnt make was the source magazine layouts (obviously) which I sliced up and arranged instead of just sicking one on and forming it.
Favourite parts would have to be the 'wears my shoes!' text accross the top of the mouth and the isolation of the hands.
Hidden/not-so-hidden mistakes would be the shadow which is hand painted (will prob redo before print) and the isolation of the hair is a mess but give me a break, it was frizzy curls! And also the hard edges of the base of the left arm.

So yea, tell me what you think!
Weird? Obviously photoshopped? To far on the 'conceptual' front?

Oh and if Strobism counts the lighting was 1 vivitar 285HV shot through a westcott satin umbrella high at about 60 degrees camera left - just look at the fall off, you get the idea. Lighting was tricky because this is clearly composite but I think it matches up.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Image Full Color Design

2009-08-03T21:12:00.000-07:00

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Kazi Kazan Tattoo

2009-08-03T08:52:00.000-07:00

Headline(Tattoo): Scratch n’Win
(Scratch also means ‘Engrave’ in Turkish)

Sub-head: Only those ads proven to be effective and
brands engraved in our hearts win an Effie!

(Effie awards creative ideas whose effect has been measured in the market. Ideas are evaluated together with the research, strategy, marketing, design and implementation.)

Print campaign for Effie Awards Turkey 2007
Agency: Publicis Yorum
Client: Turkish Association of Advertising Agencies, Turkish Association of Advertisers
Art director: Orgut Cayli
Copywriter: Zeynep Evgin
Photography: Emre Dogru (20 ML)
Retouch: Cem Erdogan (Diagonal)

Effie Awards Türkiye 2007 icin basin reklam kampanyasi
Ajans: Publicis Yorum
Müşteri: Reklamcilar Dernegi, Reklamverenler Dernegi
Sanat yonetmeni: Orgut Cayli
Metin yazari: Zeynep Evgin
Fotograf: Emre Dogru (20 ML)
Retouch: Cem Erdogan (Diagonal)

Source :http://www.rnel.net

Taj Mahal Oil Painting

2009-08-02T08:14:00.000-07:00

This is a photoshopped Oil Painting of the Taj Mahal. Originally, this was a photograph of the Taj Mahal, located in Agra, India. With a few steps from the Oil Painting Photoshop Tutorial you can turn virtually any photograph into masterpiece!

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Tuning Color Cross

2009-08-01T18:40:00.000-07:00

DOWNLOAD VIDEO NOW

Video tutorial : Tuning Image

2009-08-01T18:34:00.000-07:00

Video Tutorial about tuning ImangeDOWNLOAD VIDEO NOW

Tutorial : Setting Passport Photo with Photoshop

2009-08-01T17:58:00.000-07:00

This tutorial will show you how to take, format, and prepare your own passport photos. Rather than repeating what is already provided, please see the guidelines provided by the US Department of State. These will provide you with information regarding proper lighting, exposure, composition, and size. If you live in another country, please check for guidelines at your passport issuing authority as they will likely differ. For example, in Canada the final size can be as large as 70mm by 50mm, however, it appears as though they require a photo from a professional although that is not absolutely clear. Enough of this, let's get one with the process as it pertains to US requirements.

The original photo

Once you have taken your photo and are happy with the expression and lighting, it's time to make sure the sizes are correct. In the guidelines, it says that the trimmed photo must measure 2 inches by 2 inches and the distance from the chin to the top of the hair must be between 1 inch and 1 3/8 inch. So the first thing to do is to measure the distance between the chin and the top of the head. This is done with the measuring tool.

Select the Measure Tool

We're going to use Photoshop's Measure Tool to measure the distance of interest. The measure tool is hidden under the eye dropper. Click-and-hold on the eye dropper to reveal a pop-out menu and select the ruler at the bottom. Or, press Shift+I on your keyboard to cycle through the icons until the measure icon ruler appears.

Measure the distance from the chin to the top of the head

Using the Measure Tool, draw a line from the chin to the top of the head. (HINT: Holding the shift key while dragging the line will force it to either vertical or horizontal) In the title bar, you will notice three values. The angle "A", the vertical distance "D1", and the horizontal distance "D2". We are interested in the vertical distance which, in this case, is 582 pixels. Now it's time for some math. The distance should be between 1 and 1-3/8 inch, I will use 1.1 inches. Now divide the 582 pixels by 1.1 inches to determine you DPI. In this case, we get 529 DPI (I'll use 530 for simplicity). Since the final photo will be 2"x2", the size of the image will be 1060 pixels by 1060 pixels. (TIP: Many commercial printers will actually increase the size of you picture slightly so that the image bleeds to the edge of the print. If you set the distance to 1-3/8 inch you risk going over the allowed size when printing.)

Cropping to the right size

Choose the marquee select tool from the toolbar. Once the tool is selected, you will see a drop down menu in the title bar allowing you to select a style. Select the Fixed Size option and set the width and height options to 1060 pixels by 1060 pixels (use the values you calculated in the previous step). Then position the box so that the subject's nose is in the center. This will ensure that the eyes are within 1-1/8 to 1-3/8 inches from the bottom. Once the square is positioned, hit CTRL-C to copy the image.

Creating a 4x6 template

In the File menu, select New and set the Preset Size to 4x6 and the Resolution to 530 DPI (use your value), then click OK. This will open a new document with the correct aspect ratio to print a 4x6 and the correct resolution to ensure the photos will be the correct size.

Paste your passport photos to the template

Hit CTRL-V (or select paste from the top menu) to place the photo onto the template. Move the photo to the top. Repeat for the second photo and move it to the bottom. As I mentioned before, commercial printing services may slightly resize your image so make sure the images are not on the edge. You may loose part of it. You are now ready to save the file and sent it to the printer.

The final product

Once you get the photo printed use a trimmer to cut the images to 2"x2" and submit them with your passport application. I printed mine on a Kodak Instant print machine, but if you have a good enough photo printer at home, you could probably use that.

Source :http://www.exguides.org

Create Ring Of fire on Photoshop

2009-08-01T17:56:00.000-07:00

None of the given Photoshop Tutorials are written by me. They are all taken from various sources on the Internet and I compiled some of them for you. Hope you understand. More are in the line.

Ring of fire tutorial created by loopKamel

Final product:

Step 1: Start off by creating a new image, because details are the most important, the document must be large, make sure it forms a perfect square. For this I set my image size to 2400x2400 px. Set background color to black. Now create a new layer, fill it in black too and name the layer "Base". Make sure you have the default black and white as foreground and background colors, go to Filter > Render > Difference Clouds, apply it 5 more times.

For better results open Image > Adjustments > Levels and click on Auto, and shift the midtones to the right a bit. Hit the Ok button.

Step 2: Now, go to Filters > Render > Lighting Effects and enter these parameters:
Light Type: Spotlight
(Make the light shape a perfect circle as its shown in the image below)
Color: #FFF001
Intensity: 20
Focus: 45

Color: #C80002
Gloss: 40
Material: 100
Exposure: 40
Ambience: 40

Step 3: Now, open Image > Adjustments > Levels again. Go to the red channel controls and set the dark side in output levels to 100.

Now, go to the green channel controls and set the Input level for midtones to 0.90.

Now in blue channel controls set the dark slide in output levels to 50. Hit Ok.

Step 4: Create another layer, fill it with white and name it "Fibers". Go to Filters > Render > Fibers, set variance to 6, and strength to 47, hit Ok. Now apply Filters > Distort > Polar Coordinates, choose Rectangular to Polar and Hit Ok. Still on the same layer, go to Filters > Blur > Radial Blur, set parameters to Amount to 100, Blur Method to Zoom and Quality to Best, and hit Ok. Finally for this layer, select all, copy and paste in another new document, flatten it, save wherever you want as: deform.psd and close it.

Step 5: Now go back to the "Fibers" layer and set it to Hard Light and its opacity to 65%, go to Image > Adjustments > Levels, make sure you are in RGB Channel controls and set the White Output Levels to about 165. This makes the image a little bit more dramatic.

Step 6: Select the layer named "Base". Go to Filters > Distort > Displace, Horizontal and Vertical scale must be 10, leave the other parameters as default, hit Ok. In the next window you must choose a file, then, select the file deform.psd and hit Ok.

Step 7: Still the "Base" layer, go to Filters > Distort > Glass, and set distortion to 9, smoothness to 12, Texture to Frosted and Scaling to 130%, also check invert. hit Ok.

Step 8. With the eyedropper tool, take a sample from the very brightest yellow of the image, then go to Select > Color Range, set Fuzziness to around 80 and hit Ok. Keep the resulting selection active and create a new layer, fill selection with White color. Deselect and apply Filters > Blur > Radial Blur, set amount to 35, Method to Zoom and Quality to Best. Hit Ok.

Step 9. Now we need to shift colors a little on the layer named "Base", select this layer and go to Image > Adjustments > Levels, select Channel Green and set its midtone Input Levels to 1.50 or until you see a nice warm orange appear in the fire ball.

Step 10. Now select the upper most layer, hit (Cmnd+Shift+A) to select all. Then go to Edit > Copy Merged. Now we need to go to the channels palette and create a new Alpha Channel. Paste the clipboard contents in this new channel. Make sure you are not pasting it in a new layer instead of this channel.

Load this channel as a selection, to do this select it in the channel palette and press the button with the dotted circle shape in the base of the channels palette, then invert this selection by hitting cmnd+shift+i (or you can go to Select > Inverse).

Create a new Layer, name it "HardLight" and fill the selection with a burned red color, I used for it this #3C1111. Set the transfer mode of this layer to Hard Light and keep its opacity at 100%.

Step 11. We need to mess with the shape of the fireball, in order to be more natural try to get this shape as natural as you can, like a fire cloud or something. Use the brush tool for this, painting gently the borders with black and blend tones with the burn tool at 50% opacity, make sure you fill with black all the borders of the image, keeping the fire cloud in the middle of the canvas but not to much.

Step 12. Merge all layers but Background and rename the layer to "Burn", here is where all of the work pays off. Go to Filters > Distort > Polar Coordinates and set it to Polar to Rectangular, hit Ok. If all worked as expected and you followed all of these steps, you are probably saying something like whoooaa!, exactly like me when I got to this point for the first time, Nice... right?

Step 13. Rotate the image 180 degrees and reduce it as you want, set the layer transfer mode to Lighten, burn the flames edges that reach the borders with the burn tool set it up at 50%. Duplicate this layer a couple of times and resize them in order to refine the shape of the fire image, do it as you wish. Check the layers in the next step image to get an idea of what you can do, that is up to you.

Step 14. When you are satisfied with the result, you can enhance the fire effect, make a Merged Copy of all layers and paste it in a new layer, go to Filters > Other > High Pass, apply it with a 6-8 radio and set the layer transfer mode to Soft Light. Paste again and apply a 15 radius Gaussian Blur effect. Go to Image > Adjustments > Hue Saturation and set parameters to Colorize, Hue to 0, Saturation to 40 and Lightness to -5. Hit Ok. When you are done duplicate the background layer, link with all the other layers but the background and hit cmnd+E (or you can choose merge linked).

Step 15. Turn the image -90 degrees. Hit Enter key to apply.

Step 16. Go to Select > Transform Selection, make it wide as shown

Step 17. Go to Filters > Distort > Shear. Do as shown in the image.

Step 18. Now Create a new layer and make a circle filled with black, on its Layer Styles add a nice halo effect, use a Drop Shadow for it, Outer Glow and even Stroke to do this. Make it as you wish.

Step 19. Deform the Burned layer until it fits the circle as shown. Hit cmnd+T and drag the lower left handle of the bounds while you keep pressed alt+Cmnd+Shift keys. Hit enter to apply deformation.

Step 20. Duplicate the Burn layer, scale vertical to almost 45%, set the horizontal to 100%.

Put the fire just below the circle layer and go to Effects > Distort > Polar Coordinates and mark Rectangular to Polar. Hit Ok. Use the image result to enhance the halo in the planet. Set this layer transfer mode to Lighten.

Also you can add another copy of this layer to complete the halo at the top, just turn it around -150 degrees.

Step 21. For the smoke clouds behind make a selection based on circles as shown,

fill this with white in a new layer, apply a large amount of gaussian blur. Now you need to lock the transparency of the layer, (a little check box in the layers palette below the transfers mode menu).

Go to Filters > Render > Difference Clouds and apply over three times. Go to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation and check Colorize, set Hue to 5, Saturation to 85 and Lightness to -49.

Voila! You're finally finished!

Source :http://www.exguides.org

Create Snow Effect

2009-08-01T09:13:00.000-07:00

Making snow is not all that hard, but it does consume some time. We will start with an earlier picture that is appropriate and start with the basics and proceed from there. First thing I do with any chop is to up the resolution from the crappy 72 dpi to 300. This allows me cleaner work overall. This also adds some steps that may or may not be needed if you don’t do this. After upping the resolution, make sure your colors are set to black & white. Then create a new layer, in my case will be named “falling snow” Then, because of my upped dpi I draw a small rectangular box and fill it with clouds.

Here is the reason I use a small box, we do not want too much snow so the part I think will work is here.

Now to the snow. Use Filters>Pixelate>Mezzotint>Coarse Dots. (The falling snow we see is close to our viewpoint) and execute.

Now I expand the mezzotinted box across my picture and go to Select>Color Range and select the black areas and delete. (Do not select the white area unless you want to do a Mount St. Helens picture) My fuzziness is around 68, but then, that’s just standard for me.

Sometimes, you have areas of too much snow. This is too much snow. Reduce it as you see fit

Now, soften the effect with Filters>Blur>Motion Blur and these are the settings I have used in this demonstration. They seem to work pretty well.

If you want to depict snow that has just started within the last few seconds this is as far as you need go, but let’s have a little on the ground to add that “chill factor” for the poor old fellow.

Start another layer for ground snow.

Fill pretty much the entire layer with clouds this time and adjust the brightness and contrast to get a harsher, more defined look like so.

This time, when you go to Mezzotint, use fine dots and these snow flakes will be further away.

WOW!! Blizzard time! This is what you should get when you select and delete the black areas.

We need this much because we have to develop perspective someway since this snow is lying on the ground, so Edit>Free transform the ground snow layer and squish (don’t you love these technical terms I use?) it down until it barely covers the area needed to be covered. Then, duplicate it a time or two, you will need them.

Erase what you do not need and you might use the rubber stamp to simulate accumulations in areas it would pile up in.

Snow also on table top and chair seat.

And copied onto old street guy.

Now, using the eraser, rubber stamp and, most importantly; your EYE, do the final touch up THEN work with the opacity levels on your different snow levels to bring them to pleasing levels and there you have it, an old fellow facing another tough night.

That is how I have been making snow, I hope this helps.

Source :http://photoshopcontest.com

Create Stone Texture

2009-08-01T08:15:00.000-07:00

In this tutorial we will create a stone texture.

Create a new document 800 x 600 pixels.
Make a new layer and fill with light Gray:
R: 129
G: 129
B: 129

Make foreground ink black and background white.
Make a new alpha channel and Apply Filter:
Render / Difference Clouds 3 times.

Apply Filter:
Texture / Grain
Intensity: 10
Contrast: 50
Grain Type: Soft

Go back to your gray layer and Apply Filter:
Render / Lighting Effects
Light Type: Directional
Intensity: +50
Gloss: -100
Material: -100
Exposure: 0
Ambience: +8
Texture Channel: Alpha 1
White is high: Yes
Height: 5
Make the lighting path as shown.

Now just Colorize in Hue/Saturation for the colour you want.

Use transparency masks to highlight areas of colour

Source :http://www.rnel.ne

Brightness

2009-08-01T05:20:00.000-07:00

Thought I'd post the before and after image of "Manchester, this way...." as it's one of the first real edits I've done using Photoshop.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Gallery Garden

2009-08-01T01:18:00.000-07:00

Made a combination of 3D and photoshop. Started with a basic design and added details.
Cheers,
Kristof

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Coloring Design

2009-07-31T17:41:00.000-07:00

Photoshop CS3 + Custom Brushes + Colors

Source :http://www.flickr.com

History On Photoshop

2009-07-31T09:16:00.000-07:00

The history palette is just like a fantastic expansion of the edit menu: it lets you handle different states of your documents so you can always go back, it lets you save some RAM, and is especially usefull when you submit different versions of a project.

When I made my jeans boots, my file soon ended up with more than 50 layers which included masks, adjustment layers, etc...hard to handle, both for me and Pshop, and very risky.Also,I needed to be able to go back at some early states of my document, therefore I created history snapshots before every critical operation : if you look at your history palette, you'll notice it displays every operation you made

Just try it: open a document, and change its hue (CTRL+U) to change its color, repeat twice, with different colors..(ie: red, green, yellow).Then your history palette should look like this

Now, by clicking on the different history states, you can compare, get rid of one state by draging it into the trash can at the bottom of the palette, or create a new document from it...and this is the most usefull tool, as it lets you work on a new documpent, you can just save and close your original file to be sure you dont destroy/alter it.Also, when you work on a file that involves all your RAM ressources because it's huge, and have finished preparing it, create a new document from its current state , then flatten the layers, and work easily on it to correct colors, or do some various final retouching operations.

For instance, I want to make a pic in which I have different versions of the boots.As the boots are composed of 40+ layers, I have to flatten them all, so I take a snapshot of its current state so I can go back to it

now just merge all layers into a new layer on top of the above as done in the previous lessons, (ctrl+shift+N, then alt+ctrl+shift+E), and I create a new document from this state so I can work easily on it, without all the ressource taking non visible layers

Now I can save and close the original file, and work only on the recently created one, and I can delete all the layers I dont need anymore , and keep only the one I have merged all the visible layers into.The easiest way to do it it to toggle off all these layers , by ALT+clicking on the eye on the layer you want to keep, and then choose "delete hidden layers" from the layer palette menu

Now you you have a safe original file, which contains all your masks, etc, and a new file it is safe to work on.Since I had to use 4 different files to make the boots, I could not even imagine what I should have done if I had had to work with limited undos. Hopefully this will prevent you from making pics that don't look the way you want them to just because you can't go back.

Source :http://photoshopcontest.com

How To Displacement Water

2009-07-31T09:09:00.000-07:00

Part one: creating a displacement map We start with making an image in which the brightness represents the height of the surface. Bright is high, dark is low. The dimensions of this image control the size and shape of the waves. Start with a larger image to create smaller waves.
Create a new file in RGB mode of 1000 pixels wide by 2000 pixels high. Go to Filter > Noise > Add Noise... Enter these settings: Amount: 400% Distribution: Gaussian Monochromatic Click OK Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur... Choose a radius of 2,0 pixels and click OK.
We will use the result of the previous steps as a bump map to create a representation of the tilt of the surface. We will do this separately in channel 1 and channel 2. You can ignore channel 3. It does not affect the displace filter.
Select channel 1 in the channels palette. Go to Filter > Stylize > Emboss... Enter these settings: Angle: 180° Height: 1 pixels Amount: 500 % Click OK Select channel 2. Apply the Emboss Filter again, but this time use an angle of 90° instead of 180°.
Now we are going to change the perspective. Stretching the base lowers the horizon. We would have to drag the corners to infinity to extend the water surface all the way to the horizon. We will not do that. Stretching to anything above about 3000% is enough. The perspective stretch only works between 0 and 700%, so we will stretch to 600% twice. This equals 3600%.
Unlock the background layer. Zoom out and go to Edit > Transform > Perspective. Drag one of the bottom corners to the side, to a width of 600% and hit Enter. Select the canvas with Ctrl+A / Command+A. Press Ctrl+Shift+T / Command+Shift+T to transform again. Crop away the area outside the canvas with Ctrl+A / Command+A and Image > Crop. Reduce the height of the image to make it square. In this case 1000 by 1000 pixels.
In reality, waves cause rotations in a reflection instead of translations. As a result, the horizontal distortion decreases towards the horizon. The vertical distortion does not. However, we have to adjust channel 2 as well, because the perspective change has caused aliasing near the horizon. We will use motion blur later to compensate for this.
First adjust channel 1: Select channel 1. Press Q to switch to Quick Mask Mode. Draw a white to black linear gradient from the top down across the image to create a gradient mask. Press Q to go back to Standard Mode. Now we have a gradient selection. Fill with medium gray (brightness 128).
Adjust channel 2 in a similar way: Select channel 2. Go to Quick Mask Mode. Draw a gradient to select the narrow part near the horizon where the waves are too large. Press Q to turn the mask into a selection. Fill with medium gray.

This is what the finished displacement map should look like with the blue channel hidden. Note that in the green channel, the bright areas will shift a reflection upwards, which represents a tilt towards you. The dark areas produce a tilt away from you. This may be a little confusing because it's probably the opposite of how your brain interprets the brightness variations. Save as .psd with "Maximize Compatibility". You may have to change the preference at Edit > Preferences > File Handling > Maximize PSD File Compatibility to be able to save with Maximum Compatibility.

Part two: creating a water surface We will create a lake in this valley.
First, we have to make a "flat" reflection which we will distort later with the displace filter. In this example, we will treat the landscape as a single background object. This only works if the background is very distant. Determine where the horizon should be. Select everything above this line and copy it to a new layer. This will be the reflection layer. Extend the canvas downwards to make room for the reflection. Flip vertical and move the layer down to mirror it with the background.
Near the horizon, almost 100% of the light is reflected of a water surface. At higher angles, the reflection component becomes smaller so you can see the color of the water itself. The color will be dark blue or turquoise if the water is clear. Of course, you can make any liquid you want by using another color.
Create a new layer below the reflection layer and link it to the reflection layer. Fill the area behind the reflection with the desired color. (You can adjust it later with Hue/Saturation.) Add a layer mask to the reflection layer. Draw a white to black gradient down from the horizon to show the lower part of the color layer.
Now we can add some wind. Before applying the displacement map, we will use motion blur to simulate the effect of the waves in the distance. The blur distance depends on the size of the image and the wind effect you want to create.
Select the reflection layer and Ctrl+click / Command+click the layer mask to make a gradient selection. Lock the transparent pixels by clicking the little checkerboard icon in the layers palette. Go to Filter > Blur > Motion Blur... Use an angle of 90°. Set the distance value and click OK. Repeat the motion blur with Ctrl+F / Command+F. Unlock the transparent pixels and deselect.
Now we are ready to apply the displacement map. To prevent aliasing in high contrast edges, we will scale the layer up first. You can skip the scaling steps or use smaller values if you are going to scale down the final image anyway. The displacement map will stretch or shrink to fit a selection. To get the right perspective, the horizon of the displacement map should approximately coincide with the horizon of the scene. Here, we can just select the content of the reflection layer to get the right alignment. Only a little displacement is enough to make the water look liquid. The right amount of displacement depends on the size of the image and height of the waves.
Use Transform to scale the reflection layer to 400% in both directions. Ctrl-click / Command-click on the reflection layer thumbnail to make the selection. Go to Filter > Distort > Displace... Enter the amount of displacement. The horizontal scale value should be about 50% of the vertical scale. Also select "Stretch To Fit" and "Repeat Edge Pixels". Click OK. Find the displacement map on your computer and click "open" to apply it. Deselect and use Transform to scale back to 25%.
Now it really looks like water. Notice that the layer mask is also distorted because it is linked to the layer. This causes the reflectivity to change with the angle of the surface. We will make some final adjustments to complete the image.
Select the layer mask, go to Levels and change the white output level to about 240 to make the surface slightly transparent near the horizon. If needed, use the other sliders to further adjust the reflectivity. Finally, cut away the edges of the image if the repeated edge pixels are noticeable.
Source :http://photoshopcontest.com

Tutorial : Create Graffiti Text On Photoshop

2009-07-31T08:39:00.000-07:00

STEP 1: Select a good picture or texture to add the graffiti. We selected this wall:

STEP 2: Type your text. Is very important that you choose an appropiated font.

STEP 3: Right click in the text layer and Rasterize Type.

STEP 4: Duplicate the layer. On the new layer, press CTRL and click the text layer to select the content of the layer and go to Select -> Modify -> Border. Use a width of around 15 px.
.

STEP 5: Select the Paint Bucket Tool (G) and paint the selection. Then erase it pressing the backspace key to obtain this effect:

STEP 6: Select the text layer. Select the Gradient Tool (G) and define the colors:

Press CTRL and click the layer to select the text. Apply the gradient:

STEP 7: Change the Blend Mode to Soft Light. Now the wall is visible through the text.

STEP 8: Go to Add a layer style and select Drop Shadow. Apply these values:

STEP 9: Select the Smudge Tool (R), and drag the graffiti down to simulate little drops.

Final result

Source :http://www.rnel.net

Butterfly

2009-07-31T01:13:00.000-07:00

This was the first time I tried doing a photo manipulation piece.

I was just experimenting with colors, brushes, and the pen tool. Please tell me what you think.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Old Photo

2009-07-30T16:06:00.000-07:00

Old photo effect on one of my recent photos of Fantoft Stave Church in Norway.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Photoshop and Illustrator

2009-07-30T10:18:00.000-07:00

This experimental image was created using an intimate combination of numerous Photoshop and Illustrator techniques. The initial shot was of a friend of mine who I subsequently removed completely...

The various curves, lines and shapes were created using a series of scripts in Adobe illustrator. Once these were created, the two were then merged back in Photoshop.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Manipulation : Create Graffiti On Wall

2009-07-30T08:37:00.000-07:00

Graffiti as a form of art in its modern form first appeared at the beginning of 20th century, but its origins go back long ago when the first men expressed their artistic talents on cave walls.

Either graffiti is a work of art or mere vandalism, this question has no definite answer. Some graffiti have an artistic value and an idea behind them; others are a waste of paint and unsightly damage to state and private property.

In this tutorial we will show you how to make graffiti on any wall without running the risk of being fined.

The image below has been taken from the internet. We do not know the author personally, but we hope he will not mind.

We used the Chameleon plugin in Adobe Photoshop, but you can use any other photo editor compatible with the AKVIS Chameleon plugin.

Step 1. Open the graffiti image in your photo editor.
Step 2. Make a precise selection of the fragment. In this case the graffiti design has a difficult form, but the background is homogeneous. It’s easier to delete the background than to select the object.
In Adobe Photoshop you can use Magic Eraser Tool . Select it from the Toolbar and left click on the background around the chicken and between the wings and feathers. The background will be removed.

Now select the fragment. For quick selection click on the layer icon in the Layers palette keeping the Ctrl-key ( on Macintosh) pressed.

"Layers" palette

Select the command Filter –> AKVIS –> Chameleon – Grab Fragment in the main menu. You’ll see a message that the selected object has been saved into the clipboard.
Step 3. Open the background image. Here we have a photo of a brick wall.
Step 4. Select the command Filter –> AKVIS –> Chameleon – Make Collage. The Chameleon workplace will open with the background image and the fragment loaded into the Image Window.
Step 5. Select the Emersion mode from the drop-down menu Mode in the Settings panel.
Step 6. Use the Transform tool to adjust the size and the position of the chicken on the wall.

Press the Enter-key (Return on Macintosh) to apply the changes.
Step 7. Select the colors of the wall. The selected colors will be replaced with the fragment’s areas.
Step 8. Click on to start image processing. Here is the result:
Step 9. For the image to look more natural adjust the value of the Threshold parameter. In this case the optimum value is about 50-60.

Now it looks more realistic.
Apply the result. Click on to apply the effect and close the plug-in window. The result will be shown in the workspace of your photo editor.
Step 10. One more trick to give the image the final touch. In Step 4 one can see a shadow that faded after the processing with the plug-in. We can restore it using the Photoshop Burn Tool. Select this tool from the Toolbar and adjust its settings. Now left-click on the shadow and, keeping the Shift-key pressed to get a straight line, draw a line over the graffiti.
Here is the final result:

Source :http://www.rnel.net

Brown Transparant Action

2009-07-29T08:06:00.000-07:00

I promised I'd share my own Photoshop Action that creates faux tintype (ferrotype) effects. Here it is!

The action file has two different tintype effects. The first one creates a light tintype result, while the second creates a dark tintype result. Both effects were created using real tintype photos as examples, and sampling the actual colors from the tintypes. The above example image shows the original photo, the first (light) tintype effect, and the second (dark) tintype effect.

I created this action file on a Mac using Photoshop 7.0. I hope it works for you.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Fire Light Picture

2009-07-29T05:20:00.000-07:00

We had some storms move through last night and rain was predicted for a good bit of today, so when I went outside at 5:30 this morning I was delighted to find lots of small, low, fast-moving clouds streaking across the morning sky. I was not delighted about the constant light rain that was still falling. Local WX RADAR indicated the rain was quickly moving out so I decided to give it a shot. The rain ended just as I was parking and stalking my new vantage point. Maybe John’s cloud-dance worked this time!

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Sponge, Underpainting, Watercolor Effects

2009-07-29T02:25:00.000-07:00

The filters can do important work.Here i will show you all standart filters and i will explain important things about them.
The filters are lockated in the Filter menu.
Lets start with the filters Artistic sub menu:

Sponge
The best way you will see this filter is in a image with very contrast colors.
Picture before filter Sponge:

Picture after filter Sponge:

Underpainting
Draws the image on some text.
Picture before filter Underpainting:

Picture after filter Underpainting:

Watercolor
Draws the image with wet paint.
Picture before filter Watercolor:

Picture after filter Watercolor:

Source :http://www.onlinehowto.net

Fresco, Neon Glow,Film Grain On Photoshop

2009-07-29T02:13:00.000-07:00

Photoshop has over 100 Filters devided in 14 categories.
The filters can do important work.Here i will show you all standart filters and i will explain important things about them.
The filters are lockated in the Filter menu.
Lets start with the filters Artistic sub menu:

Film Grain
For the brighter parts of the image you have more saturated colors.
Picture before filter Film Grain:

Picture after filter Film Garin:

Fresco
Draws the image rough(with no details).
Picture before filter Fresco:

Picture after filter Fresco:

Neon Glow
It adds color(light)to the image in dependens of the saturation.You can change the saturation.

Picture before filter Neon Glow:

Picture after filter Neon Glow:

Source :http://www.onlinehowto.net

Create 3D Text

2009-07-28T09:29:00.000-07:00

Here we will tell you how to make a 3d my space text effect in photoshop.

[1] Take a new file of 400 pixels, 400 pixels, of resolution 72 dpi in the RGB mode.

[2] Fill the background with gray. Select the type tool and create a white text.

[3] Now rasterize the layer right click on the text layer select rasterize layer, then press Cntl+T, to Rotate your text layer.

[4] Go to Blending Option use the following settings.

[5] Make the copy of the Text layer then right click on the copy text layer, now click on clear layer style then press the down button on your keyboard 4 times.

[6] Go to Blending Option use the following settings.

[7] Your image will be as shown image below.

[8] Your done! Play around with the Brush Tool for more cool effects.

Source :http://ooglewindowblinds.com

City

2009-07-28T09:08:00.000-07:00

This was shot from the Henderson Waves Bridge. The downtown Clarke Quay area is just behind those HDB apartment blocks. As I was clicking this it reminded me of the song .

Well, I just got into town about an hour ago
Took a look around, see which way the wind blow
Where the little girls in their singapore condos
Are you a lucky little lady in the city of light
Or just another lost angel...city of night
City of night, city of night, city of night, woo, cmon
Sing.a. woman, sing.a. woman
Sing.a. woman sunday afternoon x3
Drive through your suburbs
Into your blues, into your blues, yeah
Into your blue-blue blues
Into your blues, ohh, yeah
I see your hair is burnin
Hills are filled with fire
If they say I never loved you
You know they are a liar
Drivin down your freeways
Midnight alleys roam......

DRI - smart objects blending using 5 exposures. Then some Scott Kleby workflow for curves, shadow/highlight ++

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Simple Tutorial 3D

2009-07-28T05:32:00.000-07:00

[1]-First of all Open New Document of Custom Size,Height & Width 500×500 pxl,Resolution 72 & Mode RGB Color

[2]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following shape with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ right click select ‘Make Selection’

[3]-In Make Selection ‘Feather Radius’ should 0 pxl,Tick on New Selection & then ok & your image should look like as shown below

[4]–Now fill the selection with ‘1a1a1a’ color & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[5]-Now Open New Layer & then fill the selection with ‘707373′ color & then select ‘Burn Tool’ & create the some shading

[6]-Now select ‘Dodge Tool’ & Highlight the some parts like as shown below

[7]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[8]-Now fill the selection with ‘aeb2b2′ color & Highlight the some parts with the help of ‘Dodge Tool’

[9]-Now reduce the Opacity of this Layer

[10]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[11]-Now fill the selection with ‘b37a29′ color & then set the 5 pxl Burn Tool, create the following shape with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ right click select ‘Stroke Path’

[12]-In Stroke Path select ‘Burn’ & then ok & after that set the 6 pxl Dodge Tool & create the following shape with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ right click select ‘Stroke Path’

[13]-In Stroke Path select ‘Dodge’ & then ok & after that create the following selection with the help of ‘Ellipse Tool’

[14]-Now Open New Layer & then fill the selection with same color & create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’ & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’
with inverse selection Ctrl+Shift+I

[15]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[16]-Now fill the selection with same color & create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’ & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’ with inverse
selection Ctrl+Shift+I

[17]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[18]-Now fill the selection with same color & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’ & after that create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[19]-Now Open New Layer & then fill the selection with same color & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’ & after that create the following selection with the help of
Pen Tool

[20]-Now Open New Layer & then fill the selection with same color & create the following shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’

[21]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[22]-Now fill the selection with same color & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’ & after that Open New Layer & create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[23]-Now fill the selection with same color & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’

[24]-Now create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ & then fill with ‘fffffa’ color

[25]-Now create the other selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ & fill with different color
See below for the Final Photoshop Output.I hope this is a good tutorial & you can use these Photoshop Techniques in your Graphics Design Project

Source :http://tutorialqueen.com/

Singapore

2009-07-28T02:03:00.000-07:00

took the pic using 3 exposures s stops apart in RAW then used photomatix to tonemap..used several layers in photoshop on top of that to create the darm effect

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Eclipse Effect in Photoshop

2009-07-28T02:00:00.000-07:00

Step 1

Open Photoshop and create a new document. I used for this tutorial the wallpaper size of 1900x1200 pixels. Right after that fill the background layer with black and with the Rectangular Marquee Tool(M) create a selection like the image below.

Step 2 - Brush

This is exactly what we saw on the other tutorial I wrote, there are just a few differences. But let's repeat the step here.

1 - Add a new layer and fill it with gray.
2 - Go to Edit>Define Brush Preset...
3 - Rename your brush to "Rec Brush".

Step 3

Now let's edit our brush, to do that go to the Brush Engine, Window>Brushes (F5). Basically we will use the Shape Dynamics, Scattering, Color Dynamics and Other Dynamics to create the efect we want. Just follow the image below for reference.

Step 4

With our custom brush let's create the effect, add a layer and paint some rectangles. After that let's add some Layer Style. Go to Layer>Layer Style>Drop Shadow. Use Color Burn for the Blend Mode, 80% Opacity, 120º Angle, 5px Distance, and 10px Size.

The last thing here is to repeat this step 2 more times. Like create another layer, paint some brush and add the Layer Style.

Step 5

Now let's resize the layer, just horizontally. You can go to Edit>Transform>Scale, or just press CMD+T(mac) or CRTL+T(pc). After that go to Filter>Blur>Motion Blur. Use 90º for the angle and 155 pixels for the distance.

Step 6

Select the Ellipse Tool (U) and create a big ellipse, it will be the dark planet. Use the image below for reference.

Step 7

Now let's make some adjustments. Let use Layer Masks to delete some parts of the image and to make others darker. So first select the ellipse layer and go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal All. Then select the Brush Tool(B) and big brush, the regular one rounded with 200 pixels, hardness 0%, and the color black. Now just delete some parts of the ellipse (1-4). After that select the rectangles and repeat add a layer mask exactly like we did before. Again select the brush tool, it will be the same preset as the last usage, this time however, change the opacity to 20% and paint some areas to maks some retangles. (5-11).

Step 8

Here let's add some color, I will use Abduzeedo's color. So go to Layer>New Fill Layer>Gradient. Change the angle to 90%, and scale to 80%. After that just change the Blend Mode to Overlay.

Step 9

Create a new layer and fill it with black, after that go to Filter>Render>Lens Flare, use 100% for the brightness and the 50-300mm zoom for the Lens Type. Change the blend mode to Screen. You will notice that the layer is too bright, there is too much gray. So go to Image>Adjustments>Levels. Then just change the Input Levels to 50, 1, 255.

Step 10

Now let's add a photo from sxc.hu, you can download it here h ttp://www.sxc.hu/photo/986801. Place it in the center of our image. You will have to rotate, and rescale it. Then just change the Blend Mode to Screen too.

After that go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal all. Let's repeat the step 7 and delete some parts of the image, do that until you get the result like the image below.

Step 11

Now select the ellipse layer and go to Layer>Layer Style>Outer Glow. Change the Blend Mode to Hard Light, the opacity to 90% and select the Gradient Color. Use the default yellow and change the size to 60px.

Step 12

Create a new layer on top of the others, fill it with black and go to Filter>Texture>Grain. Change the Intensity to 66 and the Contrast to 60. After that change the layer's Blend Mode to Soft Light and 60%. You will notice that the image will get a bit darker.

Step 13

This step is not really necessary but the whole idea is add a bit of texture to the rectangles. So download the texture image from sxc.hu (http://www.sxc.hu/photo/1021346) and place it in the document, right on top of the ellipse layer and beneath the lights. After that reduce its just to make it a bit smaller. Then go to Image>Adjustments>Invert, change the Blend Mode to Overlay and the Opacity to 10%.

Conclusion

There are lots of ways to create this effect, and lots of good tutorials showing how to create that type of eclipse effect, the lines, and the other light effects. But the idea of this tutorial was to mix everything to get a nice result. I hope you like it and now it's all about playing with the tool. ;)

Source :http://abduzeedo.com

Be a vampire on photoshop

2009-07-28T01:33:00.000-07:00

Shauna posted a fun pic of herself on MySpace. It so called out for a little vampire photoshop fun.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Design Photo Shoot

2009-07-27T09:05:00.001-07:00

Photographers - Myself and Edward Cabalit
Clothing Designer - Dora Un
MUA - Gigi Liang
Hairstylist - Robin Dale
Models - Rosette, Michele and Nichole

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Create Water Drops Effect

2009-07-26T18:02:00.000-07:00

In this article we will show you how to add water drop effects to an image using the default tools in Photoshop. You can add these drops regardless of whether you have a blank background or a background which has a colored image. Following is a step-by-step guide to do it.

STEP 1
Open the document in which you want to add the effects. For the purpose of this article we have used Peppers.jpg from Photoshop 7 samples folder.


Fig 1	Fig 2

STEP 2
Create a new layer by clicking the new layer icon at the bottom of the Layers Palette. Press D to set the foreground color to black & the background color to white. Now press Ctrl + Backspace to fill this layer with white.

STEP 3
Choose Filter>Noise>Add Noise. Drag the slider to 400. Choose Gaussian for distribution & check the Monochromatic check box. (See Fig 1)


Fig 3	Fig 5	Fig 6	Fig 7

STEP 4
Now, choose Filter>Blur> Gaussian Blur. Enter a value of 5 and click OK.

This will create a gooey mess, but be patient.

Fig 4

STEP 5
Now, select Image>Adjustments>Threshold. Here adjust the value in such a way that black spots appear. That happens around 150. (See Fig 2)

STEP 6
Repeat step 4 and 5 till bigger black spots start appearing.

STEP 7
We suggest that you invert the colors. This can be done by pressing Ctrl + I. Press W for Magic Wand tool. Uncheck the �Contiguous� check box. Click anywhere in the black area of the image. This will delete all black areas of the layer. The result is shown in Fig 3

STEP 8
Now, select Layer>Layer Style> Bevel & Emboss. Enter a value between 7 and 10 for size (Usually, 7 or 8 does the trick). (See Fig 4)

STEP 9
Then, click the Blending Options tab in the layer style box. In the �Advanced Blending� options, change the �Fill Opacity� to zero and click OK. Now the effect should come to light. (See Fig 5)

To make this water drop effect look real, simultaneously press Ctrl and click Layer 1. Choose Select>Modify>Border and enter a value of 2.

This will create a 2 pixels wide selection border around the Layer 1 contents. Choose Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Enter a value of 1.5 and click OK. Press Ctrl + D to deselect. The finished result is shown. (Fig 6)

If you want to move these drops, then just drag them with the move tool.

The effect we have created is quite similar to the effect created by Alien Skin Eye Candy 4000 Water Drops filter. The only difference being that in Alien Skin Eye Candy filter, the light effect on the drops can be created from any direction whereas in the above mentioned case the light effect is set by default. The filter also gives the option to add color to the drops, which can be done as follows.

Create a new layer. Change the layer mode from Normal to Color from the Layers Palette. Simultaneously press Ctrl and click the drops layer. Now, choose your desired color from the color picker box (click the foreground color to open the color picker). Press Alt + Backspace to fill the color.

Decrease the opacity to about 75% to finish the effect. This technique is also a �turn anything transparent� trick. Instead of the drops, it can be anything including brush strokes and text with a bevel applied. (Fig 7)

Source :http://pcquest.ciol.com

Golden Gate Bridge

2009-07-26T17:57:00.000-07:00

Robert Scoble launched his new video show on PodTech today and one of his first episodes is one where he interviews me and follows me around as I shoot the Golden Gate Bridge called Photo Walking with Thomas Hawk. We talk a lot about digital cameras, about digital photography, photo sharing and lots of other stuff. The first episode is episode number one of a four part series.

Scoble's been a good friend for a while and is a great guy. We had a blast shooting this together. I think these kinds of things where he follows photographers around (he's looking for more photographers if you are interested) and talks about their shooting and style and work and the what not are great ways to get to know photographers better.

We plan on doing some more photo shoots in the San Francisco Bay Area. Let me know if you have any good ideas for other shoot locations or features.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Tips Black and White Selective Desaturation

2009-07-26T17:51:00.000-07:00

I am going to use Photoshop for this quick tutorial, but it should be a pretty similar process for other programs.

The first thing I should say is that this technique will only work well for certain photos. As we will be removing a whole colour from the photo, the colour should be present in one area only, so that you don't get areas of black and white scattered around your image.

Here is an example of the type of photo that doesn't work very well:

There are a lot of colours in the photo, and some are not actually as they appear. For example, the grass is not green, it is actually under the yellow channel. The faces are also under the yellow channel, not the red, as you may or may not expect. You'll learn more about why this is important later.

Now we have a bad example to work with, let's see what we want to desaturate. I think I'm going to try and desaturate the middle costume, the one in the red top.

Without worrying about how I did this yet, I'll show you that under DPC's basic editing rules, it's impossible to only desaturate that one guy:

I've desaturated the red for his shirt, and the blue for his shorts. As you can clearly see, the crowd have also had their clothing desaturated, and the blue matt has lost its colour too. You'll notice that even now, there is colour left on the guy where we don't want there to be any colour. The legs are still looking pink, and the head is yellow. Once we've desaturated these 2 colours we end up with an even worse looking picture.

It looks like we've just desaturated "because we can". It's completely random and has no useful purpose. This is never a good idea in photography. You should only ever do something if you feel it will benefit the photo, not just because you read a tutorial and wanted to try it out.

Now that we know when not to use selective desaturation, let's learn how to use it in an effective way.

For basic editing challenges, you often have to have the idea that you want to selectively desaturate when you take the photo, so that you can make sure that the colour you want to desaturate isn't present in other areas of the photo. It is also very important to have you white balance set correctly, because having it wrong could create a slight colour cast in the photo, causing your selective desaturation to desaturate other things which you want to remain in colour!

For an example, I will use this photo of mine, which I took with the idea of desaturating later on:

I cut the word 'Green' out of transparent red film, so that anything behind it would become red. I could then desaturate the red layer to leave a field of green grass, with the word green in black and white.

Okay, so how do you selectively desaturate? First of all go into hue/saturation.

The following window will appear with a number of settings:

Hue shifts the colours of the whole photo.

Saturation changes the strength of the colour.

And lightness, well, isn't it obvious?

At the top of the window, it says Master. This means that your adjustments are currently effecting all of the colour channels. Click that, and you'll see a list of different channels. In this case, we want to desaturate red, so select the red channel.

You can then move the saturation slider all the way down to -100 to make the red channel black and white.

But in this example there is a problem. Some of the grass has reflected onto the red film and that means certain areas aren't desaturated. In this case it is easy to fix. The areas that aren't desaturated look yellow, so lets see what happens when we desaturate the yellow channel. In theory everything should be fine.

That's weird. Even though the grass definatly looked green, it was under the yellow channel. Since it looked very green to our eyes, it was most probably right on the boundary between yellow and green. Around the letter 'G' there is some area of green, so this confirms the fact. The yellow on the G which we wanted to desaturate was much more yellow, so this means we can shift the hue and fix the problem. Here is what we do:

First, set the saturation of the yellow channel back up to 0 so we can see colour again. Next, we want to shift the yellow channel over toward the green, so we change the hue slider. As you can see from my example, +35 has made the grass a definate green, not yellow. However, as the yellow on the lettering was further towards the middle of the yellow channel, it still remains within it, so we have separated the 2 areas into 2 different channels. This means that we can adjust them both separately now.

It is important that you press 'OK' at this point, confirming any changes you've made. This will set all the sliders back to 0 and enable us to work on the new image, rather than just adjusting the settings we made on the original. Once you've pressed OK, go back into the Hue/Saturation setting again. Then go back to the yellow channel, and try desaturating now.

Looking much better now! One problem remains though. The grass is looking un-naturally green. To fix this, just press OK to save the changes so far, then go back into Hue/Saturation, and select the green channel. If you do -35 for hue (because we did +35 before), the grass should go back to its original colour, and we've got rid of the yellow on the lettering already, so it won't be effected.

And that's the selective desaturation done! This was quite a complicated example, but you should definatly know how to do the basics now, and also how to try and correct it if it doesn't work out exactly to plan.

In my challenge version of this photo, the lettering appears much lighter. That's simple to do too. When you're desaturating the red channel, play around with the lightness of the red channel too.

Sepia Selective Desaturation

The steps are similar, but instead of desaturating the relevant channels all the way, just desaturate them part of the way. This dulls down the colours a bit. Then, adjust the hue until the channel is the tone of sepia that you want it to appear. You don't have to make it sepia. You can make it blue, green, pink, whatever fits your photo the best. In the photo above, I decided that a red sepia looked best. It really improves the mood over the normal green colouring of the trees.

Source :http://www.dpchallenge.com

Bust Photo

2009-07-26T17:43:00.000-07:00

Good heavens, if this photo enters flickr explore, I will start a new flickr group. yea yea anyone can start one. Oh, lord, I hope I will get 500 comments ... Oh heavens, I dream of getting 5 - 6 invites .. Oh! Now I have mail everybody about posting this photo, I have to mail few goils, I have give WOW WOW comments to few, oh, I forgot I have to SMS another goil. I will also become famous, I will also do social networking with these photos. Aha. What I need to have is lot of time and money to call people that I have posted the next great photo in history, I need to be some with not much do, addicted to online groups, preferably away from family etc etc. Ha, that reminds me of some people who will make comments like its tilted, its over exposed, lens flare, crop suggestions, over saturated.. phew ! Especially there is a guy who has a buddy icon of fire, well let him make any such comment. This time I will teach him a lesson.

Advice: Photography is all about comments, views and favorites and yes explore, if you haven't learned that yet, do it before its too late.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Egyptian Sphynx Photoshop

2009-07-26T17:37:00.000-07:00

Cleopatra´s dream, ranked 2 in the egyptian sphynx photoshop contest on photoshoptalent.com (created by anmazondi)

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Blinking light Wallpaper

2009-07-26T09:26:00.000-07:00

Here we will tell you how to make a Animation blinking light photoshop techniques in photoshop.

[1] Finding a good image like this.

[2] Now double click on your background then click ok.

[3] Create a new layer.

[4] Now fill the new layer with Black color then drag the layer.

[5] Make the copy of the image layer.

[6] Then press Cntl+T, Trasnsform Selection to minimize your image like this.

[7] Make the copy again and Cntl+T, Trasnsform Selection to minimize your image.

[8] Make the more copies of the image layer, your layer pallete should be look like this.

[9] After that go to Window>Animation.

[10] Now hide the layers do not hide these two layers.

[11] Duplicates selected frames click this icon indication a hand sing.

[12] Unhide the Layer 0 Copy and hide the layer 0 see in the next.

[13] Duplicates selected frames again.

[14] Now Unhide the next layer and hide the previous layer see in the next.

[15] Use the same think to all layer your animation frame should be look like this.

[16] Now Play Animation click on this icon indcation a hand sign.

[17] Go to File>Save for web & Devices.

[18] Your final image should be as shown below.

Source :http://ooglewindowblinds.com

Manipulation City Crown Image

2009-07-26T01:14:00.000-07:00

I took a photo of albert dock which i was really happy with...then i decided to design something for it in photoshop and came up with this...i love it

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Disintegration Effect in Photoshop

2009-07-25T18:13:00.000-07:00

In this tutorial I will show you how to create the disintegration effect using brushes and the blur filter. It's really simple and you will be able to create nice designs using this sort of trendy style of effect.

Step 1

Create a new document in Photoshop. For the size I used 1920x1200 pixels. Then fill the background layer with a gradient, you can do that via Layer>Layer Style>Gradient Overlay. Use #5ba1c6 and #4a565b for the colors, 90º for the angle and Linear for the style.

Step 2

Add a new layer and make sure you have black and white for the background and foreground colors. Then go to Filter>Render>Clouds. Change the Blend Mode to Screen and with the Eraser Tool (E) use a very soft brush to delete some areas of the clouds layer.

Step 3

I showed you this technique in the Flying Girl in Photoshop tutorial, it's really simple. Add a new layer and select the Gradient Tool (G). Click on the color settings and select the Black and White Preset. For the Gradient Type use Noise, 100% Roughness and select both Options: Restricted Colors and Add Transparency. Then fill the layer with the gradient and go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Use 30 pixels for the Radius. After that change the Blend Mode to Color Dodge and the Opacity to 50%, then with the Eraser Tool (E) delete some areas of the layer like you did in the last step.

Step 4

Place the photo that you want to disintegrate. I used one from sxc.hu, you can download it at http://www.sxc.hu/photo/924206. You will have to extrat the guy from the background. You can do that with the Pen Tool (P) or the Lasso Tool (L). Tip: There are lots of ways to cut objects from the background you can check this article out for some examples: http://abduzeedo.com/cutting-images-pictures-video-tutorials

Step 5

Let's use the Adjustments to make the guy's image match the background and the rest of the image. First go to Image>Adjustments>Brightness and Contrast, change the Contrast to 100. After that go to Image>Adjustments>Hue and Saturation and reduce the Saturation to -55. Then go to Image>Adjustments>Photo Filter. Use a very light blue and change the intensity to 70%. That will give a nice bluish style to the image.

Step 6

Duplicate the guy's layer and go to Filter>Blur>Radial Blur. Change the Amount to 10, Blur Method to Zoom and Quality to Best. After that move this layer so that it will be behind the guy without blur layer.

Step 7

In order to create the disintegration effect we will use a custom Brush. Go to Window>Brush or press F5 and use the brush settings below.

Step 8

Add a new layer and with the Brush Tool (B) select the brush you have just created and start painging the disintegragion. Use the skin color of the guy for the brush color but also change to some dark colors to add some depth. After that go to Filter>Blur>Motion Blur. Use 0º for the Angle and 20 pixels for the Distance. The angle will vary depending on the direction the particles will be going to.

Step 9

Keed painting more particles. Change the size of the brush using the keyboard shortcuts [ and ]. Remember to change the angle of the motion blur (red arrows) but also the angle of the brush tip in the Brush Settings.

Step 10

Select the 2 guy layers and go to Layer>Merge Layers. Then go to Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal All. Then select the Brush Tool(B) and black for the color. With the Brush you have created for the particles start painting over the mask to delete the areas of the guy that are disintegrating (1-4). After that go to Filter>Blur>Radial Blur. Use 10 for the Amount, Zoom for the Blur Method and Best for the Quality.

Step 11

Create a layer beneath the guys layer and paint more particles repeating the same technique we did in the Step 8.

Step 12

Let's add some ligthing bolts to our design. I used an image that you can find it at http://www.sxc.hu/photo/1097676 . Basically the first thing to do is place the lightning bolt photo in the photoshop document, the go to Image >adjustments>desaturate. You will have a black and white photo now. Change the Blend Mode to Color Dodge. Tip: If the lightnings are too light go to Image>Adjustments>Levels and increase the black input. Also you can add a Gaussian Blur.

Step 13

Select all layers and duplicate them. After that go to Layer>Merge Layers. You will have one layer with the whole image, then go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Use 30 pixels for the Radius and press OK. Change the Blend Mode to Screen and the Opacity to 70%.

Another nice effect to add in this step is: Create a layer on top of the others and fill it with black. Change the layer's Blend Mode to Color Dodge and select the Brush Tool (B). With a very soft brush and white for the color paint some light effects in the disintegration areas of the image, betwen the particles and the guy's body (1-4).

Conclusion

You can add another layer on top of everything and use a blue gradient to make the whole image with a blueish style. Also you can add some noise and your logo to make it with that movie style. The idea of this tutorial was to show you how to create the disintegration using brushes and blur. There are other ways to do that as well, you can use the Displace filter for example, as I did in the first experiment for this effect. It's all about playing with the tool and getting inspiration from movies, tv shows, magazines, internet and many other places.

Source :http://abduzeedo.com

How To Remove Freckles and Blemeshes

2009-07-25T18:05:00.000-07:00

In this tutorial I will show you some really easy techniques to remove freckles and blemeshes from a photo using blurring, blending modes, and layer masks.

Go from this

to this

First save this picture and open it in photoshop

Then duplicate the layer and hide one so you have a backup copy.

Now on your image add lens blur by going to filter>>blur>>lens blur and use these settings

Here is what that looks like

Now duplicate your original layer that has freckles and move it above your blurred layer.

Add a layer mask to it by hitting the layer mask icon or by going to Layer>>Layer Mask>> Reveal All

Once you do that a little icon will pop up beside your layer

Now grab a soft brush with the color black and I am using the size 35px.

Now zoom in and paint away all the freckles. Try to leave some of her facial lines in tact.

If you mess up and remove something you don’t want removed just hit x on your keyboard to make your foreground color white and you can paint back in what you removed.

Here is what I have after I am done removing the freckles

I think that looks pretty good but I think it looks a bit too fake for my liking. So all I will do is dupliate the original layer again and move it right below the layer with the mask.

Now I will just use a large eraser brush and erase certain parts of the image and leave a few of the freckles so it does not look totally fake. I will use a 65px soft brush for this.

And here is my final image

Source :http://www.tutorialhero.com

Pink Flower Valentines

2009-07-25T17:58:00.000-07:00

I photographed the gerbera I purchased yesterday against the black armchair. I merged a photo of the chocolate heart (red) into the centre of the gerbera daisy and added a black background. Do you like it?

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Create Logo Internet

2009-07-25T05:34:00.000-07:00

[1]-First of all Open New Document of Custom Size,Height & Width 500×500 pxl,Resolution 72 & Mode RGB Color

[2]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’

[3]-Now fill the selection with ‘cbccd0′ color & create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’ & then press DELETE

[4]-Now select ‘Burn Tool’ & create the following shading

[5]-Now select ‘Dodge Tool’ & create the following shape with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ right click select ‘Stroke Path’

[6]-In Stroke Path select ‘Dodge’ & tick on ‘Simulate Pressure’ & then ok & your image should look like as shown below

[7]-Now go to Blending Options select Color Overlay & use the following settings
Photoshop Technique-How to use the Color Overlay features

[8]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’

[9]-Now fill the selection with same color & create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’ & then press DELETE

[10]-Now create the following shading with the help of ‘Burn Tool’

[11]-Now go to Blending Options select Inner Shadow & use the following settings
Photoshop Technique-How to use the Inner Shadow features

[12]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[13]-Now fill the selection with same color & create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ & create the following shading with the help of ‘Burn Tool’ with inverse selection Ctrl+Shift+I

[14]-Now go to Blending Options select Inner Shadow & use the following settings
Photoshop Technique-How to use the Inner Shadow features

[15]-Now select Color Overlay & use the following settings
Photoshop Technique-How to use the Color Overlay features

[16]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[17]-Now fill the selection with same color & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn Tool’

[18]-No go to Blending Options & use the same Color Overlay features as used in previous steps & after that create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’

[19]-Now Open New Layer & then fill the selection with same color & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn Tool’

[20]-Now use the Color Overlay features & after that create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’

[21]-Now Open New Layer & then fill the selection with same color & create the following selection with the help of ‘Elliptical Marquee Tool’ & create the following shading with the help of ‘Burn Tool’

[22]-Now go to Blending Options & use the Color Overlay features & your image should look like as shown below

[23]-Now set the 1 pxl Brush Tool,Open New Layer & then create the following shape with the help of ‘Ellipse Tool’ right click select ‘Stroke Path’

[24]-In Stroke Path select ‘Brush’ & tick on ‘Simulate Pressure’ & then ok & create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn & Dodge Tool’

[25]-Now like this create the others

[26]-See below for the Final Photoshop Output.I hope this is a good tutorial & you can use these Photoshop Techniques in your Graphics Design Project

Source :http://tutorialqueen.com/

How Add Clouds to a Photo

2009-07-24T09:10:00.000-07:00

This tutorial is to help you learn how to add simple clouds to the background of any photo. Ok, once you have your picture open in photoshop:

1. Duplicate the Background Layer, (Layer>Duplicate Layer)

2. On the new copied layer render clouds, (Filter>Render>Clouds). Your photo will look like this on the left so don't worry.

3. Change the Blending Mode for the cloud layer to Screen.

4. Add a Reveal All Layer Mask to the cloud layer, (Layer>Add Layer Mask>Reveal All).

5. Then pick a good sized paint brush and simply paint black anywhere on the Mask where you don't want clouds. (which is the majority of the photo)

Source :http://www.picturecorrect.com

Moon City

2009-07-24T03:33:00.000-07:00

What it took: Canon Rebel XT, tripod, 200mm, f4, 13s, ISO 100, center metering, RAW. Photoshop for RAW adjustments and to clean out some lens flare. I was trying 30s exposures but the moon was too blurry because of its movement -- it's still a little blurry if you look at the large size.

According to the Yahoo Maps, the tallest building in the shot (BankBoston builiding) is about 2.5km from the balcony from where this shot was taken.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Pregnant Iluminada

2009-07-24T03:24:00.000-07:00

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Wallpaper 3D Animation

2009-07-24T00:59:00.000-07:00

Until The Last Moment

A picture of you frozen in time,
A space within me where you still reside,
The moment when we felt divine,
I still wait for it to arrive
Until the last moment till i survive
I will remember in my heart and mind

A picture of you frozen in time.

Until The Last Moment , sureal effect, photo manipulation , image compositing , photoshop design , wallpaper , montage , collage , design , ad concept , color correction , background, wallpaper

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Shadow Leather Ladies Shoe

2009-07-23T05:30:00.000-07:00

[1]-First of all Open New Document of Custom Size,Height & Width 380×500 pxl,Resolution 72 & Mode RGB Color

[2]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following shape with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ right click select ‘Make Selection’

[3]-In Make Selection ‘Feather Radius’ should 0 pxl,tick on New Selection & then ok & your image should look like as shown below

[4]-Now fill the selection with ‘363636′ color & then select ‘Burn Tool’ & create the following shading

[5]-Now select ‘Dodge Tool’ & Highlight the some parts like as shown below

[6]-Now go to Filter>Artistic>Paint Daubs & use the following settings

[7]-Now set the 1 pxl Brush Tool & then create the following shape with the help Pen Tool right click select ‘Stroke Path’

[8]-In Stroke Path select ‘Brush’ & then ok & like this create the others

[9]-Now create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn Tool’

[10]-Now set the 2 pxl Brush Tool,Open New Layer & then create the following shape with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ right click select ‘Stroke Path’

[11]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ & then fill with ‘5e544a’ color

[12]-Now create the some shading with the help of ‘Burn Tool’

[13]-Now Open New Layer & then create the following selection with the help of ‘Pen Tool’ & then fill with ‘8d8e8e’ color

[14]-Now Highlight the some parts with the help of ‘Dodge Tool’

[15]-See below for the Final Photoshop Output.I hope this is a good tutorial & you can use these Photoshop Techniques in your Graphics Design Project

Source :http://tutorialqueen.com/

Create Pool Ball

2009-07-23T04:14:00.000-07:00

[2] Select the Ellipse Tool, create a shape.

[3] Create another shape with Ellipse Tool, Hit CTRL-T and choose Free Transform, to rotate your shape. Right Clicking in the selection you have made and go to “Make Selection…”

[4] Then select the elliptical marquee tool then right click again to select the feather selection use these values.

[5] Set the foreground color see in the next image.

[6] Create a new layer, fill that layer.

[7] Create another shape with Ellipse Tool, Hit CTRL-T and choose Free Transform, to rotate your shape. Right Clicking in the selection you have made and go to “Make Selection…”

[8] Then select the elliptical marquee tool then right click again to select the feather selection use these values.

[9] Create a new layer, fill that layer.

[10] Take the Ellipse Tool create a shape.

[11] After that go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur use these settings.

[12] This is my result.

[13] Take the Text Tool write your word.

[14] Go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur use these settings.

[15] This is my final image.

Source :http://tutorialqueen.com/

Thryn Photo

2009-07-23T03:22:00.000-07:00

This is me playing with photoshop filters and effects to make a classic looking wedding photo. Design fruit brushes used to age the photo and machine wash effects

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Eden Design-Photoshop Design

2009-07-23T00:56:00.000-07:00

Eve's Day In Eden, sureal effect, photo manipulation , image compositing , photoshop design , wallpaper , montage , collage , design , ad concept , color correction , background, wallpaper

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Make Burn Effect

2009-07-22T09:30:00.000-07:00

Here we will tell you how to make a Burn effect photoshop technique in photoshop.

[1] You may use any photos you wan

[2] Take the Polygonal Lasso Tool create a shape like this.

[3] Now press Cntl+J, to copy your selection automatically a new layer.

[4] Find a good image to be Burn.

[5] Then change the Blending Mode Screen.

[6] Your image will be as shown below.

[7] Then make the copy of the Burn Image.

[8] Now Cntl+Click on this layer to make a selection.

[9] Select the copy of the Background Burn Image.

[10] And press Cntl+j to Copy a new layer.

[11] Now change the Blending Mode to Overlay.

[12] See below for final photoshop output image. I hope this is a good tutorial and you can use these photoshop tips in your graphics design project.

Source :http://ooglewindowblinds.com

3D room Technique on Photoshop

2009-07-22T09:23:00.000-07:00

Here we will tell you how to make a 3d room Photoshop technique in Photoshop.

[1] Take a new file of 500 pixels, 500 pixels, of resolution 72 dpi in the RGB mode.

[2] Take the Rectangular Marquee Tool create a shape make the new layer and fill with this color coding #b38f53.

[3] Take the Polygonal Lasso Tool create a shape make the new layer and fill with White color.

[4] Go to Blending Option use the following settings.

[5] Make the copy of the Previous shape layer now clear layer style.

[6] Go to Blending Option use the following settings.

[7] Take the Polygonal Lasso Tool create a shape make the new layer and fill with White color.

[8] Go to Blending Option use the following settings.

[9] Create another shape with the help of Polygonal Lasso Tool.

[10] Go to Blending Option use the following settings.

[11] Create another shape with the help of Polygonal Lasso Tool.

[12] Go to Blending Option select Stroke Structure these following settings.

[13] Take the Elliptical Marquee Tool create a shape then make the new layer the right click to select Feather selection use these values.

[14] Now fill the selection with White color.

[15] Change the Blending Mode to Overlay.

[16] Before we continue further in this Photoshop technique lesson, Here’s how your image will be.

Source :http://ooglewindowblinds.com

Glass Water Ball

2009-07-22T03:55:00.000-07:00

Interesting tutorial for making a glass ball in Photoshop.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Underwater Contrast Retouching

2009-07-22T03:48:00.000-07:00

One of the most common underwater photography difficulties is trying to capture a photo without extreme color and contrast loss. In this Photoshop Tutorial, you'll learn how to analyze and restore the color and contrast of underwater photos.

Underwater Photo Retouching Photoshop Tutorial

Color Correction

Loss of color and contrast is the primary obstacle faced by underwater photographers. First, we'll work on restoring the color of the photo to produce a fuller spectrum of color. The deeper the location image was taken at, the more color loss there is. Colors with longer wavelengths such as red and orange disappears first. When extremely deep, only blue can be recorded.

Identifying the Problem

Correcting the color for underwater photos is simple, but not as simple as regular photos. Unlike most photos where the color can be corrected using by setting the gray point with the Levels tool, underwater photos need to be manually corrected. Because most underwater photos lack an accurate gray as a reference for the color, we need to analyze the channels to identify the color causing the problem. There are two primary elements that need to be worked on: color and contrast. First, we'll show you how to restore the colors and then we'll show you how to enhance the contrast of the distance.

Step 1

Open an underwater photo in Photoshop. To do this, click on the File menu and select Open. Then, browse for the photo and click OK.

Step 2

To brighten the red channel, we'll use a Levels adjustment layer. Click on the “New Adjustment Layer” button located in the Layers pallet and select Levels.

Step 3

The Levels tool should appear. Change the channel to Red.

Step 4

Drag the middle input slider towards the left until the color of the photo looks correct. Keep your eye on the photo as you adjust; especially on the red areas.

The color is now fixed. Looking back into the channels, we can see that the blue and green channels were left untouched while the red channel was brightened.

Next, we'll learn how to correct the contrast of underwater photos.

Correcting Contrast

Contrast is another primary element for underwater photography that usually requires retouching. Follow this simple Photoshop technique to enhance the contrast of the distance without affecting the foreground.

Step 1

Open the Layers> New Adjustment Layer menu and select Brightness/Contrast. The Brightness/Contrast tool should appear. In the Brightness/Contrast tool, increase the contrast until the distance looks correct.

Step 2

Click on the thumbnail of the the Brightness/Contrast layer mask. There should be a white outline around the layer masks thumbnail when activated. Select the Eraser tool from the tools pallet. Right mouse click anywhere on the document window to open the brush options and set the hardness to 50. Now, erase the foreground area. The area you erase should appear black in the layer mask thumbnail.

Final Results

Rollover the image to see the before and after effect.

Source :http://photoshoptutorials.ws/

gothic Image collection

2009-07-22T03:39:00.000-07:00

This is a photo/image manipulation using Photoshop elements/CS3, Corel paint shop pro X2 and Photofiltre.
I used a few stockimages and a brush to create this.
Credits go to the photographers/artists who made the pictures/ brush i used.

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Gallery Image Manipulation

2009-07-22T03:23:00.000-07:00

Photoshop CS3 image manipulation

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Ray Saber Effect Image

2009-07-22T00:36:00.000-07:00

Old lightsaber effect I did in Photoshop using gradients and the smudge tool (six-point brush, baby).

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Tutorial Photoshop : water drop effect

2009-07-21T09:19:00.000-07:00

Here we will tell you how to make a Sparkling-water-drop-effect in photoshop.

[1] Open your image of your choice

[2] Take the Brush Tool use these settings.

[3] Now create a new layer.

[4] Using the Brush Tool see in the next image.

[5] Then Change the Blending Mode to Overlay.

[6] Thanks for reading, I hope this photoshop tutorial has taught you few photoshop tricks and techniques and you can use them in your website design project. Your final image will look like this.

Create a Sparkling water drop effect, Easy photoshop tutorials for beginners,Free photoshop cs2 tutorials lessons

Source :http://ooglewindowblinds.com

Lighting Photoshop Tutorial

2009-07-21T01:07:00.000-07:00

Step 1: Open a portrait photo

First, open an image of a portrait with a busy background that you would like to apply this effect to. This effect will make the background darker to add focus to the subject.

Step 2: Add an adjustment layer

Now we'll need to add an adjustment layer that will make the image darker. In the Layers palette, click on the New Adjustment Layer button.

There are many ways to darken the image, but the simplist methods are shown below. We don't recommend using the Brightness/Contrast tool in Photoshop CS2 or older because they produce poor results. The Brightness/Contrast tool has been greatly improved in Photoshop CS3, but if you're an experienced Photoshop user and you want more control, we recommend using the Levels or Curves tool instead.

If you picked the Brightness/Contrast adjustment layer, simply reduce the brightness and increase the contrast. As you adjust the settings, focus on the background instead of the subject because this effect will only be used to darken the background.

If you picked the Levels adjustment layer instead of the Brightness/Contrast adjustment layer, start by moving the middle input slider towards the right. You may play around with the other input sliders and adjust the output levels to get the effect that you like.

Step 3: Mask the adjustment layer

The adjustment layer darkened the entire image. Now we have to mask out the areas that we don't want to be darkened - the subject/person. In the Layers palette, you should now see a new adjustment layer with a layer mask. Make sure that the layer mask is selected by clicking on the layer mask thumbnail. It should have a white border to indicated that it is activated.

Now select the Eraser tool from the toolbar. Also, make sure that your foreground and background colors are set to the default. Simply press the D key on your keyboard to reset the foreground and background colors to the default colors.

Once you have the Eraser tool selected, the option bar near the top will show you the settings you can set for the Eraser tool. Set the Opacity to 50% and adjust the brush size and hardness.

Using the Eraser tool, erase the foreground to make it brighter. If you make a mistake, you can switch back to the brush tool to paint back the areas that you want to reverse.

Here's what my image looks like after erasing the foreground.

Erase the foreground or just the subject again. This time, I ony erased the subject to keep the rock a little darker.

In the option bar, set the Opacity of the brush to 100%.

We'll apply one more layer of erasing to the layer mask. This time, I only erased the face. In the image below, you can see the areas that I erased. If you look closely, you can see a halo around the subjects head. This is because I was being sloppy and my brush hardness was too soft. I can fix this by switching back to the brush tool and using a stronger hardness (50%) to paint back the background.

Final Results

Dimming the background is a simple, but truely effective way to hide busy backgrounds and increase focus to the subject.

Source :http://photoshoptutorials.ws/

Field Of Dream

2009-07-21T00:49:00.000-07:00

Sureal effect, photo manipulation , image compositing , photoshop design , wallpaper , montage , collage , design , ad concept , color correction , background

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Gradient Photos

2009-07-21T00:28:00.000-07:00

Edited with Photoshop CS3, using the brightness/contrast & the gradient tool. (: Nice, eh? :D It makes the skies look so colorful. :) I LOVE PHOTOSHOP! (:

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Create Local Contrast

2009-07-20T00:33:00.000-07:00

Step 1: Open an image

Open a photo into Photoshop. To open a file, choose File > Open, browse for the image file, and click OK.

Step 2: Duplicate the layer and add a layer mask

Press Ctrl+J or choose Layer > Duplicate. This will create a second copy of the background layer. On the new layer, click on the add layer mask button in the Layers palette to add a layer mask.

Step 3: Use the Unsharp Mask filter

When we added the layer mask, it automatically selected the layer mask. Select back the layer by clicking on the thumbnail of the layer. Now choose Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask.

In the Unsharp Mask tool, set the Amount to 100% and increase the radius until the details become more apparent. Don't worry about it looking too sharpened - we'll work on that later. Adjust the amount so that the image contrast looks strong, but not posterized. Click OK when done.

Step 4: Paint the layer mask

Most likely, you don't want this effect to appear on the entire image, but rather just certain areas. In this step, we'll paint the layer mask to specify where and how strong the local contrast effect will be applied.

There are two ways to do it:

Remove the effect from certain areas
Use the Eraser tool to erase certain areas of the layer mask.
Add the effect to certain areas
Select the layer mask and press Ctrl+I to invert. This will make the layer mask black. Use the Brush tool to paint the areas that you want to apply the local contrast effect to.

For this tutorial, we'll use the Eraser tool. Select the Eraser tool and set the hardness to 0% and opacity to 50%. If you're the Brush tool instead, use the same hardness and opacity.

Make sure that you have the layer mask selected. Click on the layer mask thumbnail in the Layers palette to activate it. With the layer mask selected, erase the areas that appears to be too strong. If you're using a brush, paint the areas where you want to increase the contrast. In the image below, I erased the ground. tiger, and parts of the background slightly. My layer mask may look like I did a sloppy job, but that is fine because it is hardly noticeable in the final results.

Now set the opacity to 100% and erase (or paint if you're using the Brush tool) the areas that you want to fully remove the effect from. For example, the snow on the ground looks dirty with the effect, so I masked out the effect from the snow.

Final Results

Here is the before and after effect of this Local Contrast Photoshop tutorial. After applying local contrast, the wall in the background shows a lot more detail. This effect can make photos look as if they were taken with high quality lens.

Source :http://photoshoptutorials.ws/

fireworks with gradient overlay

2009-07-20T00:23:00.000-07:00

Taken at the amazing firework display at the Mouth of the Tyne Festival.

I added colour with a gradient overlay in photoshop

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Gallery Gradients

2009-07-20T00:09:00.000-07:00

A Photoshop experiment using gradients, layers and solid colors. The watch is an early Limes Nightflight. I also used my 50mm 1.4 Manual Nikkor which will be getting more regular workouts so I can learn to focus it

Source :http://www.flickr.com

Tutorial : Vintage Clouds

2009-07-19T17:52:00.000-07:00

Step 1

As usual, start by opening any photo into Photoshop. Of course, the photo should have a sky with some clouds.

Step 2

Create a selection of the sky. To do this, you can use any selection tools such as the Quick Select tool or the Magic Wand tool.

Step 3

With the selection still active, in the Layers palette, click on the button and choose Levels.

This should bring up the levels tools. You should also see in Levels adjustment layer that the selection applied to the layer mask.

Step 4

In the Levels tool, select Blue from the Channel drop down menu. Then, move the black input slider towards the right until the skies start turning yellow. Don't click OK yet!

Step 5

Then, select the Red channel from the Channel drop down menu and move the white input slider towards the left just a little. Don't click OK yet!

Step 6

Finally, select back the RGB channel from the Channels drop down menu. Move the black input slider towards the right to increase the contrast of the clouds. Now you can click OK when you're done.

Step 7

If you want, you can also add a lens flare. Select the Background layer then choose Filter > Render > Lens Flare.

Final Results

Before and After

Source :http://photoshoptutorials.ws/